This Summer's Best Dessert...Apricot Clafoutis

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If you only try one new recipe this summer, make it this one.  If you want to be transported to a Provencal kitchen in one bite, this will take you.  If you want to cheat on your diet, do it with this dessert.  Just make it.  Two nights after I made it, I wanted to make it again.  I did, but I tested another recipe.  It was a mistake.

Don't substitute anything, especially the apricots.  If you want to tweak it, control yourself.   You might feel some satisfaction by stamping it with your sifted powdered sugar initials just before you serve it, but it really doesn't need it.

The recipe comes from Lulu Peyraud who, with her husband Lucien, owns and operates Domaine Tempier, the premier producer of Bandol wine.  Throughout the years, they have hosted a parade of food and wine luminaries including Alice Waters, Paul Bertolli and Richard Olney, the author of many books on Provencal cooking, including this one. and recipient of The James Beard Award.

I have never been a big fan of clafoutis but this one is other- wordly.  Half flan, half souffle, Madame Mere and I cleaned up the whole thing in a sitting and a half.  A couple of nights later I made Julia Child's recipe just to see the difference and MM told me to throw it away and go back to the first.  This from a woman who took lessons at the Cordon Bleu in Brussels and worships at the altar of Julia Child and Gourmet magazine.  You don't get a  better endorsement than that.

Clafoutis Aux Abricots
From "Lulu's Provencal Table," by Richard Olney

Serves 6

Ingredients:

2 TBS butter
1 pound apricots, halved and pitted (6 or 7 depending on size)
2 oz slivered almonds
2/3 cup sugar*
Pinch of salt
3 eggs
1/2 cup flour
1-1/4 cup milk

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375F. Butter shallow baking dish of a size just to hold the apricots**. Arrange apricots closely, cut surface down in single layer. Fill spaces with the almonds. In a mixing bowl whisk together 1/2 cup sugar, salt, eggs. Sift in flour, whisking at the same time, then whisk in milk. Pour mixture over apricots. Sprinkle  remaining sugar over surface. Dot with butter. Bake for 40 minutes or until golden crust has formed. Serve tepid.

If your fruit is not sweet enough, sprinkle 1/4 cup over the surface instead of "the remaining sugar".

** I used an Emile Henry small rectangular dish  (Small: 11 3/4" x 7" x 2 3/4" high; 3 1/4-qt. cap.)

All photos Lindaraxa

Thanksgiving Favorites... Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie, An All Time Favorite

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One of Lindaraxa's most popular posts published six years ago. 

Now that I live in the South, the DEEP South, I think it would only be appropriate to have pecan pie as my other dessert on Thanksgiving.  I have been mulling whether to have pecan pie or chocolate pecan pie or chocolate bourbon pecan pie and the choice was made for me last night by my friend Libby Wilkie who publishes the beautiful blog An Eye for Detail.  Isn't that what friends are for? Although I have to admit that the bourbon part is my contribution. Who wouldn't exchange that for vanilla extract, especially on Thanksgiving!

Pecan trees are so abundant in this part of Georgia that they are all over my son's backyard.  The area where he lives used to be a pecan farm in the middle of what is now a suburb of Atlanta.  Maybe I can get them to gather some  for me, since, after all, the pumpkin pie filling is a product of our visit together to the pumpkin farm last month.  Talking about home grown pies!

One of the most important things about this pie is toasting the pecans beforehand.  Really, do go the extra mile, it makes a world of difference as far as flavor is concerned.  Place whole or halved pecans on an ungreased sheet pan and toast in a 350 degree oven for 10-12 minutes, stirring a few times until light brown and fragrant. Let cool and set aside.  Don't go overboard on the pecans. Just add what it says in the recipe or you will overwhelm the pie  Been there, done that.

 Don't scrimp on quality when it comes to making the best chocolate pecan pie for the holidays. As important as toasted and roasted pecans are to this pie, so is the type of chocolate used. Gourmet chocolate would include such brands as; Lindt chocolate, Ghirardelli chocolate and Callebaut chocolate. Mini chocolate chips are easy to use, and shaved or finely chopped dark chocolate works well too. These two ingredients -- toasted or roasted pecans and gourmet chocolate -- will be the deciding factor between a so-so chocolate pecan pie and a knock-your-socks-off, have-to-have-some-now chocolate pecan pie! A few drops of Bourbon won't hurt either.


Servings:  8 - 10

Ingredients

1 deep dish 9 inch basic pie crust

3/4 cup gourmet chocolate chips or shaved dark chocolate

1 1/2 cup toasted pecans, shelled and chopped in half if desired

1/3 cup butter, melted

3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

3/4 cup Karo light corn syrup

3 large eggs

3 TB Bourbon

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 Degrees F with rack in lowest position.  Prepare pie crust ahead of time  whether you are making one or buying one already made such as Mrs. Smith's. Place toasted pecans in the bottom of the unbaked pie shell (don't worry, they will rise to the top when the pie is fully baked ). Sprinkle chocolate chips or shaved chocolate over the pecans. Place the pie crust on a baking sheet to prevent drips and set aside.

Melt butter in a medium saucepan. Turn off heat. Add brown sugar, stir until dissolved and pour into a large mixing bowl. Mix well with the whisk attachment.

Add corn syrup and mix again. Scrape.

Mix in bourbon and eggs, beating to mix well, but not foamy.

Carefully pour batter over the chocolate chips and pecans, being careful not to disturb them.

Bake at 350 degrees for approximately 50 to 60 minutes or until top is slightly browned and puffed up. This will fall during cooling.  Make sure you let the pie cool on a wire rack for at least 4 hours.

Chocolate Pecan Pie cuts best when it is chilled. Use a sharp knife. Let cool completely before wrapping. This pie freezes well, so make extra!



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My "Secret" Recipe for Peach And Almond Crumble

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The local fruit this year continues to amaze me.  The cantaloupes have been out of this world and, so plentiful, they are selling two for $3 at the local market.  The peaches are the first I taste this year and they are also outstanding; although I have to admit these were from South Carolina and not Georgia. They were sweet and so juicy I had to eat them over the sink.

I was caught empty handed this weekend when I went to make a crumble and there was no oatmeal in the pantry.  Although I don't like the taste of oatmeal on crisps or crumbles, I do like the consistency it gives the topping, so a substitute had to be found.  Enter some sliced almonds AND a packet of Quaker Instant Maple And Brown Sugar Oatmeal  that I keep around for emergencies when my stomach is too sick to handle anything else. 

I have to confess I gave this a lot of thought.  Six luscious ripe peaches were not something you risk on a whim.  When all was said and done, this crumble was outstanding.  So much so, I will make it again exactly as I made it this time.  It will be my secret recipe for peach crumble. Seriously, in order to make it a secret recipe there has to be something unusual in it.  Like a pear in the pumpkin soup, right?  Well here it is a packet of instant oatmeal, but make sure it is the one I used.  I think it was the hint of maple sugar that gave it that "Je ne sais quoi:" taste.  Whatever it was, it was gobbled up in no time...need I say more?

I had planned to share half the recipe with my sick neighbor but when I opened the fridge the next morning, this is what was left.  My daughter and some friends came back after a party late that night and the crumble was history.

..and the moral of the story.  Don't hesitate to experiment in the kitchen.  It might turn out to be your next "secret" recipe."

Do you have a secret recipe? I would love to hear about it!

Peach And Almond Crumble

Serves 8

Ingredients:

5 to 6 peaches (Georgia or South Carolina)

3/4 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed
3/4 cups plus 2 to 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour,
pinch of salt
1/2 cup quick-cooking oatmeal*
1 stick unsalted butter, diced
3/4 cup sliced almonds

1 cup whipping cream
2 tsps sugar

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter the inside of a square baking pan.

Immerse the peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds, then place them in cold water. Peel the peaches and slice them into thick wedges and place them into a large bowl together with the juice.  Add 1/4 cup granulated sugar, 1/4 cup brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons of flour. Toss well. Allow the mixture to sit for at least 5 minutes. If there is a lot of liquid, add 1 more tablespoon of flour. Pour the peaches into the baking dish and gently smooth the top.

Combine 3/4 cup flour, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 1/4 cup crushed almonds, the oatmeal, salt and the diced butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix at low speed until the butter is pea size and the mixture is crumbly.

Sprinkle evenly on top of the peaches.

Cook at 350 for 1/2 hour.  Take out, sprinkle the rest of the almonds and continue cooking for another 1/2 hour.    Let it rest for 1/2 hour.

Note:

I highly recommend that you skip the ice cream and serve with freshly made whipped cream.  (Add 2 tsps of sugar)

This can be made ahead and reheated at  350 for about 20 minutes.  Cover with foil if the almonds begin to darken

This recipe can be doubled and cooked in a 9x13 Pyrex.

The Perfect Menu For A Mardi Gras Dinner

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From the archives, four recipes to celebrate Mardi Gras:

 

 

 

 

Antoine's Oysters Rockefeller

 

 

 

 

Shrimp Creole

 

   

 

 

New Orleans Bread Pudding With A Whiskey Sauce

 

 

 

 

Café Brulot

 

 

 

 

 

top photo credit Flickr

 





A Mother's Day Menu... Navarin Printaniere

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Navarin Printanier, a most delectable lamb stew with its carrots, onions, turnips, potatoes, peas, and green beans, is presumably done in the spring when all the vegetables are young and tender. But as it can be made any time of the year, it is not a seasonal dish any more thanks to deep freezing. The written recipe is long as each detail is important if the navarin is to taste like a French masterpiece. But none of the steps is difficult and everything except the addition of the green vegetables at the very end may be made ready in the morning although I prefer to do it the day before. The stew can then be finished in 10 to 15 minutes just before dinner time.

With the stew serve hot French bread, and a red Beaujolais or Bordeaux wine, a chilled rose, or a fairly full-bodied, dry, chilled white wine such as a Macon, Hermitage, or one of the lesser Burgundies.

Navarin Printanier is one of Madame Mere's most favorite recipes.  That and anything shrimp. I have been making Julia Child's recipe for her ever since I can remember.  It is always met with a big smile.

As with all long recipes, read it through to the end before you start. I have adapted the recipe format to make it simpler for you.

Here is a menu that I think works particularly well on this occasion or for a Spring lunch.

Mother's Day Or Spring Lunch Menu

Le Bernardin Salmon Rilletes

Navarin Printanier

Savannah Sponge Cake With Berries And Madeira

or

Strawberries With A Sabayon Sauce

Other Mother's Day Menus here. here and here.

Julia Child's Navarin Printanier

For 6 people
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.


3 lbs. Lamb stew meat
2 to 4 Tb rendered fresh pork fat or cooking oil

A 10- to 12-inch skillet
A fireproof covered casserole large enough to hold the meat, and all the vegetables to come

Cut the lamb into 2-inch cubes and dry with paper towels. The meat will not brown if it is damp. Brown a few pieces at a time in hot fat or oil in the skillet. As they are browned, place them in the casserole.

1 Tb granulated sugar

Sprinkle the lamb in the casserole with sugar and toss over moderately high heat for 3 to 4 minutes until the sugar has caramelized. This will give a fine amber color to the sauce.

1 tsp salt

1/4 tsp pepper

3 Tb flour

Toss the meat with the salt and pepper, then with the flour. Set casserole uncovered in middle level of preheated oven for 4 to 5 minutes more. This browns the flour evenly and coats the lamb with a light crust. Remove casserole and turn oven down to 350 degrees.

 2 to 3 cups brown lamb- or beef-stock or canned beef bouillon

3/4 lb. ripe, red tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped (1 cup of pulp), page 505; or 3 Tb tomato paste

2 cloves mashed garlic

1/4 tsp thyme or rosemary

1 bay leaf

Pour out the fat; add 2 cups of stock or bouillon to the saute skillet. Bring to the boil and scrape up coagulated saute juices. The pour the liquid into the casserole. Bring to the simmer for a few seconds shaking and stirring to mix liquid and flour. Add the tomatoes or tomato paste and the other ingredients. Bring to the simmer for 1 minute, then add more stock if necessary; meat should be almost covered by liquid.

Put the lid on the casserole and set in lower third of preheated oven; regulate heat so casserole simmers slowly and regularly for 1 hour. Then pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a bowl. Rinse out the casserole. Remove any loose bones and return the lamb to the casserole. Skim the fat off the sauce in the bowl, correct seasoning, and pour sauce back into casserole. Then add the vegetables which have been prepared as follows:

6 to 12 peeled "boiling" potatoes

6 peeled carrots

6 peeled turnips

12 to 18 peeled white onions about 1 inch in diameter

While the lamb is simmering, trim the potatoes into ovals 1 1/2 inches long, and cover with cold water until ready to use. Quarter the carrots and turnips, cut them into 1 1/2 inch lengths, and, if you have the patience, trim the edges to round them slightly. Pierce a cross in the root ends of the onions so they will cook evenly.

Press the vegetables into the casserole around and between the pieces of lamb. Baste with the sauce. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove, cover and return to the oven. Regulate heat so liquid simmers slowly and steadily for about an hour longer or until the meat and vegetables are tender when pierced with a fork. Remove from oven, tilt casserole, and skim off fat. Taste sauce again, and correct seasoning.

1 cup shelled green peas

1/4 lb. or about 1 cup green beans cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3 quarts boiling water

1 1/2 Tb salt

While the casserole is in the oven, drop the peas and beans into the boiling salted water and boil rapidly, uncovered, for 5 minutes or until the vegetables are almost tender. Immediately drain in a colander. Run cold water over them for 2 to 3 minutes to stop the cooking and to set the color. Put aside until ready to use.

(*) May be prepared ahead to this point. Set casserole aside, cover askew. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove before proceeding with recipe.

Shortly before serving, place the peas and beans in the casserole on top of the other ingredients and baste with the bubbling sauce. Cover and simmer about 5 minutes or until the green vegetables are tender.

Serve the navarin from its casserole or arrange it on a very hot platter.



VARIATIONS

The preceeding navarin is a model for other stews. You may, for instance, omit the green beans, peas, and potatoes, and add navy beans or lentils simmered in salt water until almost tender, or canned kidney beans, then finish them off for half an hour with the lamb.



Excerpted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck with permission from Alfred A. Knopf. All rights reserved.

Chocolate Glazed Chocolate Tart

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To me Valentine's Day is all about chocolate, roses and Champagne and I can' think of anything better than this easy yet rich dessert to celebrate the day.

A triple layer of crumbly crust, a truffle-like interior, and a high gloss shiny glaze make this elegant chocolate tart the highlight of Valentine's Day.  Go out to dinner if you must; but come home to this and a glass of Champagne!

Ingredients:

For crust

• 9 (5- by 21/4-inch) chocolate graham crackers (not chocolate-covered), finely ground (1 cup)
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 1/4 cup sugar

For filling

• 1 1/4 cups heavy cream
• 9oz bittersweet chocolate (not more than 65% cacao if marked), chopped
• 2 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

For glaze

• 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 3/4oz bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon light corn syrup
• 1 tablespoon warm water

• Equipment:

  a 9-inch round fluted tart pan (1 inch deep) with removable bottom

Directions:

Make crust:

• Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.
• Stir together all ingredients and press evenly onto bottom and 3/4 inch up side of tart pan. Bake until firm, about 10 minutes. Cool on a rack 15 to 20 minutes.

Make filling:

• Bring cream to a boil, then pour over chocolate in a bowl and let stand 5 minutes. Gently stir until smooth. Whisk together eggs, vanilla, and salt in another bowl, then stir into melted chocolate.
• Pour filling into cooled crust. Bake until filling is set about 3 inches from edge but center is still wobbly, 20 to 25 minutes. (Center will continue to set as tart cools.) Cool completely in pan on rack, about 1 hour.

Make glaze:

• Bring cream to a boil and remove from heat. Stir in chocolate until smooth. Stir in corn syrup, then warm water.
• Pour glaze onto tart, then tilt and rotate tart so glaze coats top evenly. Let stand until glaze is set, about 1 hour.

Cooks’ note: Tart is best the day it is made but can be made, without glaze, 1 day ahead and chilled. Bring to room temperature before glazing.

 

Recipe: Gourmet Magazine

                                                                                                                                       

Gelato Alla Crema

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It is time... it is time to dust off the ice cream maker and bring it front and center.   Just think, pieces of peach, strawberry, blueberries any berry! to add to this scrumptious cream.  Even pieces of baked crust or cookies.  It's such an easy dessert to make,  and it brings such joy to anyone lucky enough to share a bowl.  Seriously...have you ever seen the expression on someone having a bowl of homemade ice cream?!

I have posted a few recipes for ice cream already on this blog and a Canteloupe Sorbetto awhile back,  but this is the first one I post for a real gelato.  Frankly, given the choice, I prefer gelato to ice cream.  The difference?

For a product to carry the label of “ice cream” in the US it has to have a minimum 10% fat content. Lower quality ice cream will be around 11 or 12%, while higher quality products will hit 16% and higher. Gelato is a different thing all together- since the milk-to-cream ratio is much higher, the fat content is significantly lower- anywhere between 3 and 8%. This is particularly important when t comes to taste, as the lower fat content doesn’t saturate your taste buds as much, and the flavors have the chance to emerge stronger. Air content is also significantly lower,  about 25%-30% in gelato and usually in excess of 50% in ice cream. The reason of the different air content resides in the churning method and the processing speed. Last, but not least- serving temperature. Ice cream is served frozen, while gelato is not- hence the challenge to lick your way around the cone before it melts.

The only flavors in this smooth, rich gelato are sweet cream, sugar, egg yolks and a hint of orange. You can use it as the base for other gelatos by adding chunks of chocolate, bits of fruit or chopped nuts during the last minute or so of freezing.  I would recommend that you have it "plain" the first time.  There is nothing to compare to a homemade bowl of Gelato Alla Crema...Nothing!

For the recipe, click below:

Cornmeal Almond Cake With Berries And Cream

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Contrary to what you may think, this is not a Southern recipe, but one adapted from an Italian cook you know very well, Giada de Laurentis.   I published the recipe awhile back in my country blog which is really a recipe box for recipes that appeal to me from all sources.  Some of them I have tried, others I have not.  I don't know what took me so long to try this one.  It is the best almond cake I have ever had and it is by far the best accompaniment I have ever found for fresh berries.  That includes shortcake.

As a bonus, you will also note it has very little flour, perfect for those of you cutting back on wheat.  This is really what prompted me to try it this weekend and boy, am I glad I did.  Wheat or no wheat, this is a keeper.

Since it seems like ages that I last posted a dessert, I decided to push back the  recipe I had planned for today and share this one with you.  It was enjoyed by all over the long weekend.

On another note, you may have noticed that the latest two posts require you to click to another page to view the recipe.  This is being done for a reason, a good one!  Bear with me for awhile longer and you will see what's in store.....I am sure you will like it!

Strawberry Rhubarb Crumb Pie

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It has taken me a long time to like rhubarb and thanks to this recipe I now love it.  Why it has taken me this long problably has to do with the fact that somewhere along the line I must have tasted a very bitter rhubarb pie and promptly detested it.  That has been my impression of rhubarb all my life...bitter.  Now that I have had it paired with strawberries and a crumbly top my opinion has radically changed.  What a combo!

Strawberry rhubarb pie has always been the domain of my mother in law who made pies like no one else in the world.  (As a matter of fact, I think it was her pie that I didn't like) When my daughter mentioned a yen for it,  my initial reaction was...nah, nah, not me.  But then I thought about it and decided to give it a go, my way.

Rather than make a pie where the competition would be really stiff, I thought first of a crisp, then a crumble and finally, as a compromise, a crumb pie.  The extra sweetness of a crumble on top might make it less bitter and more palatable to the baker, me.  Next was getting the rhubarb and that was no easy task.  Let's face it, rhubarb is not exactly at the top of everyone's list.  It wasn't on mine.  Not many grocery stores carry it for that reason and you might have better luck finding it at a local farm stand or a place like Whole Foods.  Eventually, after exhausting all possibilities within a 20 mile radius, I had to settle on frozen.   On the other hand, the fresh strawberries I purchased were luscious and certainly made up for all the driving around.  By the time I got home, I too was yearning for a strawberry rhubarb pie.

This recipe is a combination of Ina Garten's and Emeril's crisp with the idea of a bottom crust from the Sous Chef.  Hope you like it.


Serves 6 to 8

1 prebaked ready made crust (I use Mrs. Smith)

4 cups fresh rhubarb, 1-inch diced (4 to 5 stalks) or use frozen

4 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and halved, if large

1 to 1 1/4 cup granulated sugar depending on how sweet you want it.

An additional 1/4 cup sugar for the crumble

1 1/2 teaspoons grated orange zest (optional, I omitted)

2 tablespoon cornstarch (use 3 if rhubarb is frozen)

1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

10 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup light brown sugar

Pinch salt

Vanilla ice cream, for serving

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.Prebake the ready made crust for 10 minutes according to directions .  Let cool.

For the fruit, toss the rhubarb, strawberries, 1 cup of the granulated sugar and the orange zest together in a large bowl. In a measuring cup, dissolve the cornstarch in the orange juice and then mix it into the fruit. Pour the mixture into a prebaked crust..

 

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F

In a mixing bowl, combine 10 tablespoons of butter, flour, remaining 1/4 cup of granulated sugar, the brown sugar and salt and cut together until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.  Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit making sure it comes all the way to the edges.

 

 

Bake until the topping is golden brown and crispy and fruit is bubbly in places, about  50 to 60 minutes.  If the topping is brown before the fruit bubbles, cover the pie loosely with tin foil and continue cooking.

 

 

Cool for at least an hour and serve warm, with a dollop of whipped cream, ice cream, or creme fraiche, if desired.

 

 

If truth be told, it was better cold the next day!

 

I am having problems with Blogger and the fonts.  Please excuse

All Photos Lindaraxa 

 

Balthazar's Profiteroles

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Balthazar is probably the only restaurant in the world where I think of dessert first and everything else last. Serve me anything to get it over with and get to the real purpose of my visit...Profiteroles!  If I were to die tomorrow, this dessert and Julia Child's chocolate mousse would be tough contenders in the last meal sweep stakes and this recipe might just win the grand prize.


Opened in 1997 in the Soho district of New York City, Balthazar is as close as you will ever find on this side of the pond to a French brasserie.

Contrary to what you may think, profiteroles are one of the easiest desserts to serve at a dinner party, particularly if you have the puffs already made and frozen..  The hot chocolate sauce is made at the last minute and takes less than two minutes to prepare. How long does it take you to add two scoops of ice cream?

A word of advice, though.  Before Balthazar came into my life, I used to make the Julia Child recipe for the puffs.  This time, I thought I would try something else.   At one point, I almost thought I might have to throw the whole batter away.  You will find it a bit runny and hard to work with.  I measured the flour exactly but used the White Lily brand thinking it might turn out a lighter puff.  That might have been my problem.  Next time I will definitely try it with regular all purpose flour.    Because of this light mishap I did not brush the puffs with the egg yolk, which did not make any difference in the presentation.  Luckily, and much to my surprise, the puffs rose to their expected height and were light, airy and wonderful.  I was most pleased and expect to make them again very, very soon.

At Balthazar, profiteroles are served by a food runner who pours a warm chocolate sauce over the ice-cream-filled puffs, adding the finishing touch at the table. One runner began making a terrific show of all this, starting with a reserved drizzle, then gradually hoisting the little metal pitcher high above his head. Still pouring, he miraculously hits the ice cream target with no resulting splash. He began a trend among the food runners, all of whom now amaze and frighten the guests with their wild chocolate pouring.

Ingredients

Serves 6

For the puffs

1/2 cup whole milk

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted

5 large eggs

1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
I added a pinch of sugar to the batter*

For the chocolate sauce

1/2 cup heavy cream

8 ounces semisweet Valrhona chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 pint vanilla ice cream

.

Directions

Make the puffs

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C)

.

2. In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, butter, and salt with 1/2 cup of water and bring to a boil. Add the sifted flour and stir with a wooden spoon until thoroughly combined into a dough. Continue stirring over medium heat for about 3 minutes.

3. Transfer the dough into the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir at low speed for a few minutes to lower the temperature of the dough. Increase the speed to medium and then add the eggs, one at a time. Mix until a smooth, cool dough forms, about 4 minutes.

4. Fill a pastry bag, fitted with a #9 tip, with the dough, or use a soup spoon to form small puffs, about 2 inches in diameter, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush the puffs with the beaten egg yolk and transfer to the oven.

5. Bake for 45 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool the puffs on a wire rack and then slice them, as if they were hamburger buns, with a serrated knife

.

Make the chocolate sauce 

1. Heat the heavy cream in a saucepan until it foams. Reduce the flame to low and add the chopped chocolate. Whisk until all the chocolate has melted and the sauce is smooth and shiny. Keep warm over a pan of simmering water

 To serve

1. Fill the puffs with a scant scoop of ice cream and serve on small plates or in shallow bowls. Pass a pitcher of warm chocolate sauce at the table.

Lindaraxa's Note: Although the normal portion at a restaurant is three, at home I only serve two puffs filled with a small scoop of ice cream.  It is more than enough per guest.

Recipe adapted from The Balthazar cookbook © 2003 Keith McNally, Riad Nasr, Lee Hanson. Photo © 2003 Christopher Hirsh

Mama's Angel Food Cake With A Bourbon Creme Anglaise

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For Christmas my daughter in law gave me a copy of a fabulous cookbook by Virginia Willis called Bon Appetit, Y'all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking. It is a unique cookbook in that it combines many of her family's traditional southern recipes with the french techniques she learned while studying in France.  This angel food cake is a perfect example of what she calls "refined Southern cuisine"

For those of you who don't know her, she apprenticed under Natalie Dupree, graduated from both L'Academie de Cuisine and La Varenne and has cooked for President Clinton, Julia Child, chef Roger Verge, and Jane Fonda.  Formerly Martha Stewart Living's kitchen manager, she now lives in Atlanta Georgia.

This is the first recipe I have made from her cookbook and I found it simple and straightforward.  Do notice that the flour needs to be sifted a total of five times. Yes, five.  Once before measuring and four times with the sugar.  This is necessary to achieve the traditional light-as-air texture of angel food cake. 

Read the recipe through once and you will see that it is not complicated at all.  

There is an unusual implement for cutting these cakes found in many silver chests throughout the South, including mine. These old fashioned rakelike cutters typically have a long slightly offset handle with 3-4 inch long tines that actually split rather than cut the cake.  They are wonderful to cut any type of cake and can still be found online and in gourmet catalogues.  If you do not own one, you can use a serrated knife.  Here's a photo of mine

The Bourbon Creme Anglaise is optional and not necessary although I highly recommend it if you are serving the cake for company.  I made mine this weekend for the grandchildren who spent the night while their parents entertained a group of friends, so I skipped it this time.  That's another thing, it's a great cake to make for the little ones.  No fuss and very little mess.  They can walk around with a handful and with the sous chef following close behind there's no need for cleanups.  Oh, and for the old foggies like me who are trying to watch their diet and cholesterol (boring) it's the perfect dessert! 

Ingredients

• 1 1/4 cups sifted cake flour (not self-rising)
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• 12 large egg whites, at room temperature
• 1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped or 1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
• Bourbon Creme Anglaise, optional

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees with a rack set in the center of the oven.
2. Sift the flour before you measure it.  THIS IS IMPORTANT!
3. Sift flour together with 3/4 cup sugar. Repeat process three more times; set aside.
4. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites, cream of tarter, and salt on medium speed until foamy. Add vanilla-bean seeds and almond extract. With the mixer on medium speed, slowly add remaining 3/4 cup sugar. Continue mixing until whites are glossy and stiff peaks form.
5. Sift enough of the flour mixture over the egg white mixture to lightly dust the top. Gently fold flour mixture into the egg white mixture. Repeat process until all the flour is incorporated into the egg white mixture.
6. Gently spoon batter into a 10-inch tube pan. With a spatula or knife, using a circular motion, cut through the batter twice to eliminate any large pockets of air. Smooth top to remove any large peaks.
7. Transfer to oven and bake until golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Invert pan over a bottle (such as a 2-liter soda bottle or wine bottle) until completely cooled, about 2 hours.
8. To serve, set upright, and using a butter knife or a long spatula, loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Invert onto a serving plate. Slice using a serrated knife or an angel food cake cutter; serve drizzled with bourbon creme anglaise, if desired.

 BOURBON CREME ANGLAISE


 Yield Makes 3 cups 

Ingredients

• 2 cups whole milk
• 6 large egg yolks
• 1/4 cup sugar
• Pinch of fine sea salt
• 1 tablespoon bourbon

Directions

1. Prepare an ice-water bath; set aside.
2. Place milk in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar, and salt until thick and light. Slowly pour in half of the hot milk, while stirring constantly. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the remaining milk mixture, stirring constantly. Stir in bourbon.
3. Place saucepan over low heat and bring to a gentle simmer, stirring constantly. Continue cooking until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and reaches 180 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from heat.
4. Strain creme anglaise through a fine mesh sieve set over a medium bowl. Set bowl in ice water bath and stir creme anglaise until cooled. Keep refrigerated until ready to use, up to 1 day.

Top photo Martha Stewart.com
Middle photo Lindaraxa

Empanaditas de Guayaba... Baked Cuban Guava Pastries

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You could say that guava is the national fruit of Cuba.  We eat it morning, noon and night.  There is nothing like stopping at a Cuban joint mid morning and getting a cup of Cuban coffee with a small guava pastry.  I had an uncle who ate nothing else for dessert but guava paste* with cream cheese and Cuban crackers.  Every single night. My personal favorite is guava shells in syrup with cream cheese but these little guava pastries are a very close second.


Unlike the guava pastries you buy from street vendors or coffee shops which have a flaky "millefeuille" type of pastry and are called pastelitos, the ones we make at home are baked in a pie like crust...with cream cheese!  For some reason which I haven't been able to decipher, the kind sold in the streets are not made at home and these you can't find on the streets.  Go figure

This is my mother's recipe and the one I have been making for years.  It is so easy, you can make it with your eyes closed.  The only drawback is you must make the dough the day before and refrigerate for 24 hrs. If you think of them at the last minute, you can't make them that day.

Tomorrow night we have a friend of my daughter's for dinner.  He is studying at the Cordon Bleu to be a chef.  When I asked him what he wanted for dinner, without missing a beat, he said Cuban.  That is always the case when I ask and it is a wise choice.  Cuban food is at its best when cooked at home; so find yourself a Cuban friend who will make it for you.  The menu tomorrow? Picadillo with white rice, green banana chips and Cuban Guacamole salad.  I think these guava pastries will make a great dessert.

I will prepare a full dough recipe today, use half for the guava empanadas tomorrow, and freeze the other half to make savory empanadas  (with leftover picadillo) at a later date. They are great for cocktails or to bring along on a picnic.


 Ingredients

 3 cups flour
 1/2 lbs. butter
 1 regular cream cheese

 2 egg yolks

 guava paste*

Directions:

Prepare the dough the day before.  Mix everything except the guava in a food processor or with a pastry blender.  The dough will look like pie dough. 

Roll into a ball, wrap in Saran Wrap and refrigerate overnight.  If you are saving some for a later date, divide the dough and put  half in the freezer.

Bring the dough out and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.  Roll it out using a floured rolling pin to about 1/8 inch thick.

 Cut the dough into circles, with a cookie cutter or small bowl. (I use a coffee cup). Size the circle according to how large you want your empanadas. I like a 4-inch diameter circle.

Put a small quantity of guava paste in the center of the circle (about 1/2 inch square) and fold over to make a half circle. Don't over-fill!

 Seal the edges with a fork to make a scalloped edge. Pierce them once in the middle with the fork tines.

 Brush with egg yolk and place in preheated 350 degree oven until brown... about 30 minutes, depending on your oven.

 * you can find guava paste in the Latin section of most grocery stores or order online

Guava paste is a combination of guava pulp, sugar, pectin and citric acid, which is cooked slowly until exceedingly thick and rich. It comes in individually wrapped bars that are firm enough to slice. Guava paste can be found in Latin markets and some specialty gourmet stores. Slice and serve this low-fat, low-cholesterol sweet as a snack or with cheese for dessert.

Photos Google

Cherry Cobbler

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Now that cherries are at the height of their season, I have been looking for a recipe to post that was not a cherry pie.  You see, in this house that was my mother in law's territory and no matter how good a recipe for cherry pie I can come up with it will never be the same.  Maybe one of these days when my children are far away, like in Alaska, I will get the courage to make one.  In the meantime, here is an easier alternative.

A cobbler is really a biscuit top over fruit.  There is no bottom layer to worry about and very little pin action.  My cup of tea...

Serves 8

Ingredients

3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt

1 cup sugar

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) very cold unsalted butter

2 cups cold heavy cream, plus more for brushing

3 pounds fresh sweet cherries, pitted, or 2 1/4 pounds frozen cherries

4 teaspoons cornstarch

1 tsp. vanilla or 2 TB cranberry juice

Directions

1.Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt, and 1/2 cup sugar. Using large holes on a box grater, grate butter into flour mixture. With a fork, stir in cream until dough just comes together. On a floured work surface, roll out dough to a 3/4-inch thickness with a floured rolling pin. With a knife or biscuit cutter, cut out 8 to 12 rounds or squares of dough.

2.In a bowl, combine cherries, remaining 1/2 cup sugar, the cornstarch, and cranberry juice. Divide mixture among four 1- to 1 1/2-cup ramekins; top each with 2 to 3 dough pieces. ( You can also place the cherries in one baking dish and with an ice cream scoop,  scoop biscuits on top, spacing them 1 1/2 to to 2 inches apart). Brush tops with cream. (I also like to sprinkle a small amount of sugar on top).

 Cook's Illustrated

Bake cobblers on a rimmed baking sheet until biscuits are golden and juices are bubbling, 40 to 45 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through. Let cool 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with vanilla ice cream.

Adapted from Martha Stewart

Easy Latticed Blueberry Pie

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This morning when I left the house I had absolutely no intention of making a blueberry pie; but as luck would have it, when I stopped at the farmer's market to pick up tomatoes for tomorrow's lunch, I spotted the most luscious blueberries I've seen in a long time.  So after adding them to my basket, I stopped at the store to purchase a frozen crust to make my "homemade" blueberry pie.  Yes, I do cheat sometimes, (more often than not) and buy a ready made crust, but not just any ready made crust, only Mrs. Smith's.

I have never found a better recipe for blueberry pie than the one in the Joy Of Cooking, that old stalwart of my generation.  If you don't have this cookbook, I strongly recommend it.  It has everything you can think of as well as very detailed instructions on how to go about making things.  Better yet, and this is the part I like, it gives you alternatives.  Case in point, when I looked for a recipe on one of my other books it called for tapioca pudding.  Who has that in a pantry these days?! The Joy of Cooking gives you that option plus two others, flour or cornstarch,  and depending on which one you pick, it adjusts the rest of the ingredients.  In the case of blueberries you have to be careful which thickening agent you use for they can get  get quite runny when baked.

As to the crust, leave it out for about 30 minutes so that you can ply loose one of the crusts from the tinfoil.  Lay it flat on the counter and cut 1/2 inch strips with a knife or pizza cutter. Follow the instructions here on how to make a lattice top.  Easy!

If you use a ready made crust, this pie takes no time at all; and if you cut the second crust in strips for a latticed pie no one can tell  it was not home made.  I had to swear on my grandchildren three times before my daughter  believed I had made it from scratch!

Tips from "Joy of Cooking"

•A 9-inch fruit or berry pie needs about 4 cups of fresh fruit or 3 cups of cooked fruit.

•Each type of fruit requires its own quota of sweetening. For example, 4 cups of gooseberries need about 1 3/4 cups of sugar, while blueberries may need no more than 1/2 cup plus lemon juice to heighten the flavor.

•Acidic fruits should be thickened with tapioca starch, cornstarch or arrowroot starch because the acidity of the fruit may neutralize the thickening power of the flour.

Instructions:

1. Line a 9-inch pie pan with  dough. I used Mrs. Smith frozen pie shell.

2. Prepare by picking over and hulling:

4 cups fresh berries

3.Combine: 

2/3 to 1 cup or more sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour (I recommend 1/2 if fruit is very juicy)

1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice or 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (I used Cinnamon)

4. Sprinkle the flour mixture over the berries and stir gently until well blended. Let stand for 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C).

5.Turn the fruit into the pie shell. Dot with:

1 to 2 tablespoons butter

6 .Cover the pie with a well-pricked top or with a lattice*. Bake the pie at 450°F (230°C) for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350°F (175°C) and bake 35 to 40 minutes or until golden brown * watch after 30 minutes, mine only took 35 mins.

* for a lattice top, use the second pie shell.  Let it come to room temperature, separate from tin shell, lay it out flat and with pizza cutter cut 1/2 in strips.  Follow these directions.