French Comfort...Coq Au Vin

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This could easily have been titled, "What to do when there's nothing to do" or "What I made last Sunday during an ice storm".  Yes, I know, it's been a tough month for those of us above and below the Mason Dixon Line.  The North has been buried in snow and the South has been a a toss up between snow and ice.  We are all sick of this weather and starting to get on each other's nerves. It's called cabin fever and it's time to cook up a storm!

I haven't made this dish since the late 1970's.  The reason I know is that, inside the page on the Julia Child cookbook, there is a notepad sheet of paper with my husband's name on top from a job he held when we were first married,  There are some notes in my handwriting that are so old I could barely read them.   In it I've made some slight substitutions to the order of the directions that cut down the time by about half an hour, It also eliminates having to wash two extra pans without affecting the flavor or the end result.  All my life I have tried to cut back on unnecessary pans and steps, even as a young cook. I could give a master class on this technique.

Coq Au Vin is one of those recipes every serious student of French cuisine should attempt to make early on in his or her career. From the browning of the chicken pieces in bacon and butter to the proper way of  thickening the sauce at the end, it is a master class in French country cooking. Be grateful someone came up with the beurre manie.  The alternative, in the olden days, was using the blood from your newly butchered rooster.  And yes, you are no longer required to chase and butcher the bird.  Chicken pieces are acceptable although a whole chicken cut into pieces would be more authentic.  I used chicken pieces, like thighs and legs.  If you must use breasts, split them in half.

You also learn about the term depth of flavor through a few easy techniques such as sauteing the pearl onions and the mushrooms in the drippings of the browned chicken, prior to adding them to the stew.  This is the step I moved up, using the same pan as the one I had previously used to saute the bacon in butter and brown the chicken pieces.

Following is the original recipe from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1 with these slight changes.

Do try to make this recipe the day before you serve it, Once it cools, it can be placed in the refrigerator overnight.  When you bring it out the next day, if there is any fat, skim it.  Then slowly reheat at a very low temperature.  I made it early in the day and it was finger licking good.  It was even better the next day.

As to the wine, please use a decent and hearty French wine.  You can get a good one for less than $10 at Costco and, last I heard,  Two Buck Chuck is not being produced in Burgundy! What grows together goes together, I can't say that enough.  It applies to fats also and, in this case, butter and  bacon and not olive oil are the way to go.  One day is not going to make that big of a difference in your heart rate or your weight.

I suggest that before the next winter storm is announced, and I think you have a pretty good chance of this, you have all the ingredients on hand.

As I finish this post the snow is coming down hard in North Georgia.  Madame Mere will finally get her snow.  I hope my gardenias survive this winter.

Julia Child's Coq Au Vin

Ingredients

3 to 4 ounce chunk of lean bacon

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 1/2 to 3 pounds frying chicken, cut into pieces

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus additional for seasoning

1/8 teaspoon pepper, plus additional for seasoning

1/4 cup cognac

3 cups young, full-bodied red wine, such as Burgundy, Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone, or Chianti

1 to 2 cups brown chicken stock, brown stock or canned beef bouillon

1/2 tablespoon tomato paste

2 cloves mashed garlic

1/4 teaspoon thyme leaves

1 bay leaf

12 to 24 pearl onions

1/2 pound mushrooms, I used baby bellas

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons softened butter

Fresh parsley leaves

Directions

Remove the rind and cut the bacon into lardons (rectangles 1/4-inch across and 1-inch long). Simmer for 10 minutes in 2 quarts of water. Rinse in cold water. Dry.

In a heavy large heavy bottomed casserole or Dutch oven, saute the bacon slowly in hot butter until it is very lightly browned (temperature of 260 degrees F for an electric skillet). Remove to a side dish.

Now sautee the onions and the mushrooms separately until a slight amber color.  Remove to another plate, separate from the chicken.

Dry the chicken thoroughly. Brown it in the hot fat in the casserole. (360 degrees F for the electric skillet.) Remove to a plate.

Now sautee the onions and the mushrooms separately in the same fat as the chicken, until a slight amber color.  Remove to another plate, separate from the chicken.

Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Return the bacon to the casserole with the chicken. Cover and cook slowly (300 degrees F) for 10 minutes, turning the chicken once.

Uncover, and pour in the cognac. Averting your face, ignite the cognac with a lighted match. Shake the casserole back and forth for several seconds until the flames subside. MAKE SURE THE STOVE AIR VENT IS CLOSED OR YOU MIGHT HAVE AN UNHAPPY SURPRISE.

Pour the wine into the casserole. Add just enough stock or bouillon to cover the chicken. Stir in the tomato paste, garlic and herbs. Bring to a simmer. Cover and simmer slowly for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and its juices run a clear yellow when the meat is pricked with a fork. Remove the chicken to a side dish.

Simmer the chicken cooking liquid in the casserole for 1 to 2 minutes, skimming off fat. Then raise the heat and boil rapidly, reducing the liquid to about 2 1/4 cups. Correct seasoning. Remove from heat, and discard bay leaf.

Blend the butter and flour together into a smooth paste (beurre manie). Add a little of the hot liquid from the sauce to make it easier to blend. Beat the paste into the hot liquid with a wire whip. Bring to the simmer, stirring and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. The sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.

Arrange the chicken in a casserole, place the mushrooms and onions around it and baste with the sauce. If the dish is not to be served immediately, place the mushrooms and onions on top of the chicken (see photo above) film the top of the sauce with stock or dot with small pieces of butter. Set aside uncovered for no longer than 1 hour or cool, cover and refrigerate until needed.

Shortly before serving, bring the casserole to a simmer, basting the chicken with the sauce. Cover and simmer slowly for 4 to 5 minutes, until the chicken is heated through.

Serve from the casserole, or arrange on a hot platter. Decorate with sprigs of parsley.

Slightly adapted from Mastering the Art Of French Cooking, by Julia Child

Daube de Boeuf A La Provencal For A Cold Snowy Night

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I served this daube the night before I left for a visit to Madame Mere's. I made plenty so I could freeze a couple of dinners for my daughter, my excuse to ensure that she would have at least a couple of home cooked meals while I was gone.  The cooking didn't end there.  Once I got to the other end,  I began to cook and freeze like crazy so MM would have a few of her favorite meals  to enjoy when I left.  It is easy to cook for her these days.  She is so appreciative of everything I make her, particularly if it is one of her old recipes.  She doesn't cook anymore and her meals are very basic these days.  Nothing like the old Madame Mere and it makes me sad.  But more on that on another post.

One of the things I did not expect on my return was to find a container of beef daube still in the freezer.  I have been on a cooking strike since I returned so, instead of being hurt,  I was elated.  It is perfect for tonight after a winter storm that brought us snow and 20 degree weather.  Atlanta is paralyzed.  It seems everyone tried to get out of the city at the same time and there have been people stuck in their cars since early afternoon.  There was even a baby born in gridlock.    Not since Sherman burned the city during the Civil War has there been such pandemonium; and where is Rhett Butler and that old nag!

But back to the daube...

Daube de Boeuf Carottes on a bed of parsnip puree

A daube is basically a stew cooked at a fairly low temperature for a long period of time.  Daube a la Provencal is made with inexpensive beef braised in wine, vegetables, garlic, and herbes de Provence.  It is traditionally cooked in a daubière, or braising pan. A traditional daubière is a terracotta pot that resembles a pitcher, with a concave lid. Water is poured on the lid, which condenses the moisture inside, allowing for the long cooking required to tenderize lesser cuts of meat.

A traditional daubiere

 I inherited my daubiere from my aunt Julieta who, in turn, inherited it from her father.  He was not a gourmet cook but he loved to collect gadgets.  I am sure this was bought at Hammacher Schlemmer, one of his favorite stores.  Here, instead of filling the concave lid with water, you add a few ice cubes on top which will melt and condense inside, adding moisture to the stew through those tiny holes in the other side of the lid.  Or something like that... . 

The meat used in daube is cut from the shoulder and back of the bull, though some suggest they should be made from three cuts of meat: the "gelatinous shin for body, short ribs for flavor, and chuck for firmness." Although most modern recipes call for red wine a minority, such as the recipe below, call for white, as do the earliest recorded daube recipes.

Variations call for olives, prunes, and flavoring with duck fat.   Vinegar, brandy, lavender, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, juniper berries, or orange peel also appear in some recipes with the latter being the most popular.  For best flavor, it is cooked in several stages, and cooled for a day after each stage to allow the flavors to meld together. In the Camargue and Béarn area of France, bulls killed in bullfighting festivals are often used to make daube.

Traditionally this dish should be cooked for a long time and prepared the night before it is served.

The recipe I have used comes from La Cuisine by Francoise Bernard.  It is my Bible for traditional dishes such as this.  It calls for the white wine mentioned above but I have given you a choice of red or white.  I cooked mine with a red Cotes du Rhone which I reduced to half the volume before adding it to the marinade.  It's an old trick I leaned from Daniel Boulud that gives the illusion that the sauce has been cooking for hours.

You can cook the daube on top of the stove or in the oven.  I have given directions for both.   Frankly, daubiere or not, I prefer to cook it in the oven.  If you want to turn your pot into a daubiere, cover the top of your Le Creuset tightly with tin foil and place the lid on top.

As I am getting ready to publish this post, there are still people in gridlock due to the storm.  Some have been trapped over nine hours and many are abandoning their cars and walking.   Lots of children are being kept overnight at their schools.  What a mess.  

Ingredients

3 lbs beef chuck, cut into 2 inch pieces

2 TB butter

7 ounces thick sliced pancetta or bacon cut crosswise

   into 1/4 inch thick strips

4 onions quartered

1 long strip of orange zest

Salt and pepper

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

3/4 cups black olives (optional, I omitted this time)

Chopped parsley for sprinkling at the end

Marinade

3 cups dry white or red wine (previously reduced to half the amount)
3 garlic cloves, crushed

2 TB oil

1/4 Cup Cognag

Thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

Parsley sprigs

Directions

In a large bowl combine the beef with the marinade ingredients.  Cover and marinade overnight or at least a couple of hours.

In a flameproof casserole (or daubiere if you have one) melt the butter over medium heat.  Add pancetta or bacon and lightly brown.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl .

Scrape the marinade off the beef  (but save) and dry the meat with paper towels.  Add to the casserole and, in batches, brown on all sides.  Do not crowd the pan or the meat will steam instead of browning.  As they are done, transfer the pieces to a plate.

Add the onions to the pot and lightly brown.  Return the beef and the marinade to the pot, together with the orange strip.  Add salt and pepper to taste and cover.  If you do not have a daubiere (who does!) cover the pot tightly with aluminum foil and cover with the lid.  Cook for 2 hours on top of the stove or on a 300 degree oven.

Add the tomatoes, bacon and olives and cook for another 30 minutes.

Transfer the stew to a warm serving platter and sprinkle with parsley.  Serve over noodles of your choice.  That is very Provencal. 

Photos # 2, #3 Wikipedia
All others Lindaraxa

The Cuban Arroz Con Pollo

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Arroz con Pollo  is one of the most traditional and beloved of all Cuban recipes.  It is usually served for Sunday lunch,  family gatherings and festive events.  Contrary to what you might think, it is not a hard dish to make and that is perhaps one of its major appeals.

I confess that I was a bit scared to try it myself as, for years, it had been the domain of one of my aunts.  Whenever one of us wanted to have it,  all we had to do was ring her up.  No way would any of us step up to the plate.  A couple of months ago my nephew came up for a visit and begged me to make his favorite dish.  Maybe it was the vodka, or the fact that it had been a long time since I had it,  but it was time for one of us to man up and meet the challenge.  So the next day, with my aunt on the line every step of the way, I finally conquered the fear and can now say that the "torch has been passed to a new generation."  Phewey!!

As with black beans, every Cuban cook has his or her own version of this famous recipe.  Aside from the chicken and the Cuban sofrito, the traditional ingredients are saffron, Valencia rice, pimentos and peas.  My grandmother also added canned asparagus to finish the dish and my aunt adds a bit of pimenton to the rice.  This is a new twist and a welcomed addition.  Pimenton is one of the key ingredients of the Spanish paella and it definitely adds depth to the flavor of the rice. Wine is not traditional and beer is debatable, but they also add to the flavor and I would not omit.  Just like I add a dash of vodka on the rocks at the end of some of my recipes,  I am sure there was a time when some Cuban did the same with the beer he had been drinking and that's how it became a part of the recipe.

Last December,  for the second time since I've been in Georgia, I invited my son's in laws for a family gathering on the Sunday before Christmas.  The first year I served them the Roast Pork and the Cuban Black Beans with a Flan for dessert.  This year they had the Arroz Con Pollo with Fried Bananas, Avocado and Pineapple Salad and mother's Merengon for dessert.  I am flattered my daughter in law's grandmother asked me for the recipe.  Not only is she a fabulous cook but also one of the most gracious and charming of Southern ladies and the epitome of the old South.  It is a pleasure to share this recipe with her.

Cook's Notes:

The recipe is for 8 to 10 servings.

I usually figure on a cup of rice for 3 people and a piece and a half of chicken each.

It is best to buy a whole chicken and cut it up, as the pieces will be uniform in size.  If you buy pieces, buy legs and thighs, bone in and skin on, as they have more flavor.  Don't use breasts as the meat is too dry.  If you must, only add a breast or two and cut them in half.

Valencia rice can be found in most supermarkets.  I buy mine at Publix under the brand Mahatma.

Saffron can be found sometimes in the Latin section of the supermarket for less than you would normally pay in the Spices section.

If you cannot find pimentos unsliced in a jar, look for roasted red peppers.

Try to use Spanish olive oil.  Remember what grows together goes together and olive oils differ in taste.

Pimenton is Spanish paprika and can be found in Specialty stores.  I buy mine at HomeGoods!  Don't substitute with regular or Hungarian paprika.

Buy the canned small peas and white or green asparagus, not frozen.

Arroz Con Pollo A La Chorrera

    

Ingredients

12 pieces of chicken, bone in and skin on, preferrably legs and thighs
Spanish olive oil
1 large onion diced
1 green pepper diced
3 lg cloves of garlic, mashed and finely diced
2 laurel leaves
1/2 tsp. Pimenton de la Vera (Spanish Paprika) 
1/2 cup Pomi tomatoes crushed
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 tsp saffron threads
2 1/2 cups Valencia rice
5 cups good chicken stock heated
Salt and pepper to taste
1 can or bottle of beer (I used Heineken, but any good beer, not lite, will do)
1 can whole Pimentos
1 large can small Petite Peas (I use Le Seur)
1 jar or can white or green asparagus

 Directions:

Marinade the chicken in lemon juice, sliced onions and some garlic at least for a couple of hours.  Remove from the marinade and dry in paper towels before browning.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees

Bring the chicken broth to a boil and add the saffron.  Turn off but keep warm.

In an oven proof deep skillet add 3 TB olive oil and slightly brown the chicken.  Remove to a plate.

In the same skillet make a sofrito by adding the onions, green peppers, garlic and bay leaves.  Cook until the onions are translucent.  Add the wine and 1 cup of the heated  broth and saffron. Bring to a boil,  Reduce the temperature to medium and add the Pomi tomatoes.   Add the chicken and braise until tender and almost cooked.

Taste the sauce and correct for salt and pepper.

Add the rice, a pinch of pimenton and the remaining 3 1/2 cups of broth and bring to a boil.  Place in the preheated oven and cook until the rice is almost done.  Add  half of the beer and continue cooking.  If the rice absorbs most of the beer and is still hard, add the other half and continue cooking until done.  You want to make sure the rice is tender and moist  and the consistency is similar to that of a risotto.  Cooking time is approximately 25 minutes.

Remove from the oven.  Cover the top with the pimentos halved, the petit pois and the asparagus in a decorative way.

All photos Lindaraxa 

A Mother's Day Menu... Navarin Printaniere

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Navarin Printanier, a most delectable lamb stew with its carrots, onions, turnips, potatoes, peas, and green beans, is presumably done in the spring when all the vegetables are young and tender. But as it can be made any time of the year, it is not a seasonal dish any more thanks to deep freezing. The written recipe is long as each detail is important if the navarin is to taste like a French masterpiece. But none of the steps is difficult and everything except the addition of the green vegetables at the very end may be made ready in the morning although I prefer to do it the day before. The stew can then be finished in 10 to 15 minutes just before dinner time.

With the stew serve hot French bread, and a red Beaujolais or Bordeaux wine, a chilled rose, or a fairly full-bodied, dry, chilled white wine such as a Macon, Hermitage, or one of the lesser Burgundies.

Navarin Printanier is one of Madame Mere's most favorite recipes.  That and anything shrimp. I have been making Julia Child's recipe for her ever since I can remember.  It is always met with a big smile.

As with all long recipes, read it through to the end before you start. I have adapted the recipe format to make it simpler for you.

Here is a menu that I think works particularly well on this occasion or for a Spring lunch.

Mother's Day Or Spring Lunch Menu

Le Bernardin Salmon Rilletes

Navarin Printanier

Savannah Sponge Cake With Berries And Madeira

or

Strawberries With A Sabayon Sauce

Other Mother's Day Menus here. here and here.

Julia Child's Navarin Printanier

For 6 people
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.


3 lbs. Lamb stew meat
2 to 4 Tb rendered fresh pork fat or cooking oil

A 10- to 12-inch skillet
A fireproof covered casserole large enough to hold the meat, and all the vegetables to come

Cut the lamb into 2-inch cubes and dry with paper towels. The meat will not brown if it is damp. Brown a few pieces at a time in hot fat or oil in the skillet. As they are browned, place them in the casserole.

1 Tb granulated sugar

Sprinkle the lamb in the casserole with sugar and toss over moderately high heat for 3 to 4 minutes until the sugar has caramelized. This will give a fine amber color to the sauce.

1 tsp salt

1/4 tsp pepper

3 Tb flour

Toss the meat with the salt and pepper, then with the flour. Set casserole uncovered in middle level of preheated oven for 4 to 5 minutes more. This browns the flour evenly and coats the lamb with a light crust. Remove casserole and turn oven down to 350 degrees.

 2 to 3 cups brown lamb- or beef-stock or canned beef bouillon

3/4 lb. ripe, red tomatoes, peeled, seeded, juiced, and chopped (1 cup of pulp), page 505; or 3 Tb tomato paste

2 cloves mashed garlic

1/4 tsp thyme or rosemary

1 bay leaf

Pour out the fat; add 2 cups of stock or bouillon to the saute skillet. Bring to the boil and scrape up coagulated saute juices. The pour the liquid into the casserole. Bring to the simmer for a few seconds shaking and stirring to mix liquid and flour. Add the tomatoes or tomato paste and the other ingredients. Bring to the simmer for 1 minute, then add more stock if necessary; meat should be almost covered by liquid.

Put the lid on the casserole and set in lower third of preheated oven; regulate heat so casserole simmers slowly and regularly for 1 hour. Then pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a bowl. Rinse out the casserole. Remove any loose bones and return the lamb to the casserole. Skim the fat off the sauce in the bowl, correct seasoning, and pour sauce back into casserole. Then add the vegetables which have been prepared as follows:

6 to 12 peeled "boiling" potatoes

6 peeled carrots

6 peeled turnips

12 to 18 peeled white onions about 1 inch in diameter

While the lamb is simmering, trim the potatoes into ovals 1 1/2 inches long, and cover with cold water until ready to use. Quarter the carrots and turnips, cut them into 1 1/2 inch lengths, and, if you have the patience, trim the edges to round them slightly. Pierce a cross in the root ends of the onions so they will cook evenly.

Press the vegetables into the casserole around and between the pieces of lamb. Baste with the sauce. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove, cover and return to the oven. Regulate heat so liquid simmers slowly and steadily for about an hour longer or until the meat and vegetables are tender when pierced with a fork. Remove from oven, tilt casserole, and skim off fat. Taste sauce again, and correct seasoning.

1 cup shelled green peas

1/4 lb. or about 1 cup green beans cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3 quarts boiling water

1 1/2 Tb salt

While the casserole is in the oven, drop the peas and beans into the boiling salted water and boil rapidly, uncovered, for 5 minutes or until the vegetables are almost tender. Immediately drain in a colander. Run cold water over them for 2 to 3 minutes to stop the cooking and to set the color. Put aside until ready to use.

(*) May be prepared ahead to this point. Set casserole aside, cover askew. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove before proceeding with recipe.

Shortly before serving, place the peas and beans in the casserole on top of the other ingredients and baste with the bubbling sauce. Cover and simmer about 5 minutes or until the green vegetables are tender.

Serve the navarin from its casserole or arrange it on a very hot platter.



VARIATIONS

The preceeding navarin is a model for other stews. You may, for instance, omit the green beans, peas, and potatoes, and add navy beans or lentils simmered in salt water until almost tender, or canned kidney beans, then finish them off for half an hour with the lamb.



Excerpted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck with permission from Alfred A. Knopf. All rights reserved.

Bucatini With Spicy Anchovy Sauce And Dill Bread Crumbs

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Even if anchovies aren't part of your culinary repertoire, the way the sweetness of the onions and the saltiness of the anchovies interact, combined with  the unexpected crunchiness of the bread crumbs, will make you forget that you are eating something you may not be overly fond of.

There are many people who won't touch a dish because it has anchovies as part of the mix of ingredients.  Sometimes they like the dish, particularly something like salade nicoise, but will think nothing of leaving them out.  They have no idea what they are missing  If the spiny little things are what gets in your way, then use anchovy paste.  Anchovies add a certain richness and dimension to a dish, particularly one with a red sauce.  Trust me, when all is said and done, you won't be able to identify the wonderful flavor in your pasta and nobody will be the wiser. I can't tell you the times I have served anchovy flavored dishes to people who swear they can't stand them!

I have played a little with the recipe by adding three cloves of garlic to the oil before you sautee  the bread crumbs and at least another can of anchovies if you are making one pound of spaghetti.  Also make sure you cook the onions until they are caramelized.

This is a great fast dinner for the two during the week or a casual dinner with good friends.  All you need is a green salad, a crusty baguette and an Italian Sangiovese such as  Peppoli.

Yield: Makes 6 servings


Ingredients

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

3 cloves of garlic mashed and finely chopped

2 cups fresh bread crumbs (preferably from a baguette)

3 garlic cloves smashed and minced

1/4 cup chopped dill

1 pound red onions, thinly sliced (3 cups)

1 to 2 (2-ounce) cans flat anchovy fillets, drained and chopped

1 pound bucatini or perciatelli pasta (long tubular strands)

1/2 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes


Preparation

Heat 1/4 cup oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers, add the garlic and sautee for a couple of minutes.  Add the bread crumbs and sautee stirring constantly, until deep golden and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes.

Transfer bread crumbs to a bowl and toss with dill and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and black pepper.

Wipe out skillet, then cook onions with 1/4 teaspoon salt in remaining 1/2 cup oil over medium heat, stirring frequently, until very soft and caramelized, 12 to 15 minutes. Add anchovies and cook, mashing anchovies into onions, until dissolved. Or substitute about 1 tbsp of anchovy paste if you don't want to deal with the little devils.

Meanwhile, cook bucatini in a pasta pot of boiling salted water (2 tablespoons salt for 5 quarts water) until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup cooking water, then drain pasta.

Stir red-pepper flakes and reserved water into anchovy sauce, then add pasta and toss to combine. Add about half of bread crumbs* and toss to coat. Serve sprinkled with remaining bread crumbs.


*make sure you add the first half of the bread crumbs when you are ready to serve, otherwise they will become soggy.

Adapted from Gourmet Magazine 2008

Cuban Chinese Food...Mandarin Chicken Thighs

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This recipe derives its name from the mandarin oranges (clementines) that are prevalent in most supermarkets at this time of the year and not from the traditional dish found at most Chinese restaurants.  It is an attempt, and a very successful one at that, to use up the remains of a box that was purchased during the Christmas holiday. You could classify it as elegant leftovers or Cuban Chinese Cuisine.

I use orange juice in a lot of my recipes, particularly in chicken and pork marinades, and the addition of a small amount of lemon juice as a substitute for naranja agria or bitter orange, is very typical in many Cuban dishes, perhaps as a result of the large migration of Chinese laborers who settled in Cuba in the middle of the 19th century. 

The Chinese first arrived in Cuba in significant numbers in the late 1850s to toil in Cuba’s sugarcane fields after the abolition of slavery in England led plantation owners in Cuba to search for workers elsewhere.

China emerged as the labor source following deep social upheaval after the First and Second Opium Wars. Changes in the farming system, a surge in population growth, political discontentment, natural disasters, banditry, and ethnic strife -- especially in southern China -- led many farmers and peasants to leave China and look for work overseas. While some willingly left China for contract work in Cuba, others were coerced into semi-indentured servitude.

On June 3, 1857 the first ship arrived in Cuba carrying about 200 Chinese laborers on eight-year contracts. In many cases, these Chinese “coolies” were treated just as the African slaves were. The situation was so severe that the imperial Chinese government even sent investigators to Cuba in 1873 to look into a large number of suicides by Chinese laborers in Cuba, as well as allegations of abuse and breach of contract by plantation owners. Shortly after, the Chinese labor trade was prohibited and the last ship carrying Chinese laborers reached Cuba in 1874.

Many of these laborers intermarried with the local population of Cubans, Africans and mixed-race women, although laws forbade them to marry Spaniards. These Cuban-Chinese began to develop a distinct community. At its height, in the late 1870s, there were more than 40,000 Chinese in Cuba.

In Havana they established “El Barrio Chino” or Chinatown, which grew to 44 square blocks and was once the largest such community in Latin America. In addition to working in the fields, they opened shops, restaurants, and laundries and worked in factories. A unique fusion, Chinese Cuban cuisine melding Caribbean and Chinese flavors, also emerged. (Wikipedia)
.

Dragones Street in Havana's Chinatown

Some famous Cubans of Chinese ancestry include former dictator Fulgencio Batista and one of Cuba's foremost painters, Wilfredo Lam.

While the following recipe is my own, it melds some of the distinct characteristics that make up what is known as Cuban Chinese food.

Serves 4

Ingredients

 8 chicken thighs with skin
4 clementines or mandarin oranges
1/2 lemon
2 TB soy sauce
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic
3 TB olive oil
2 TB butter
1 laurel leaf
Salt and pepper
chopped parsley

White rice

Directions

Pat and dry the chicken thighs and place them in a bowl. Cut the mandarins in half and squeeze the juice over the chicken thighs. Do the same with the lemon.  Add the soy sauce and the chopped onion. Add the mandarin and lemon skins. Cover the bowl and marinade the chicken for a couple of hours.

Remove chicken from marinade and pat dry with paper towles.  In a skillet melt the butter and olive oil.  Brown the chicken pieces on medium high.  Remove to a plate.  Add the mashed garlic and onions from the marinade and sautee until translucent.  Add the chicken pieces back to the pan, the clementine juice as well as the skins and a laurel leaf.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Cover and cook until chicken is tender and cooked, about 30 minutes.  If the sauce begins to dry out add some water to the pan. At this point, you might also add more soy sauce if desired. When the chicken is done, uncover and add some chopped parsley on top.  Let rest for about 10 minutes before serving.

Serve with white rice

Photos Lindaraxa

New Year's Eve...Lobster Thermidor

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Mother and I have been dreaming of lobster sice she arrived ten days ago. There is a wonderful recipe in Gourmet magazine circa the 1970's for a lobster in Pernod sauce that we both adore but somehow I have lost my recipe and hers is back in Miami, buried heaven knows where. As an alternative, we have decided to cook another old favorite for New Year's Eve, Lobster Thermidor...the long version. It will be served with a simple green salad and our favorite Veuve Cliquot Champagne. Nothing but a chocolate mousse for dessert will do on this ocassion!

So many steps are involved in the preparation of a really splendid lobster Thermidor, no wonder it costs a fortune in any restaurant.  For the recipe to be authentic, it must include mustard, preferrably powdered, Cognac,  and cheese at the end.  I have found no better recipe than the following one from Julia Child.

Lobster Thermidor is not a particularly difficult dish to execute,  though it is a bit time consumming but well worth the effort.  One major advantage is everything may be prepared in advance and heated up just before serving.

In this recipe the meat is stirred in hot butter before it is sauced, thus turning a rosy red. Buy lobsters weighing a good 2 pounds each, so the shells will be large enough to hold the filling.

I want to take this opportunity to thank you for visiting my blog and to extend to all of you my warmest wishes for a happy and healthy New Year!

Lobster Thermidor

Servings: Serves 6

Ingredients

• Covered, enameled or stainless steel kettle with tight-fitting cover or stainless steel saucepan
• enameled or 4-cup stainless steel saucepan
• 1/2-quart enameled
• Wooden spoon
• Wire whip
• 3-quart mixing bowl
• 12-inch enameled or stainless steel skillet
• Shallow roasting pan or fireproof serving platter

• 3 cups dry white wine or 2 cups dry white vermouth
• 2 cups water
• 1 large onion , thinly sliced
• 1 medium carrot , thinly sliced
• 1 stalk celery , thinly sliced
• 6 sprigs parsley
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/4 tsp. thyme
• 6 peppercorns
• 1 Tbsp. fresh or dried tarragon
• 3 live lobsters , 2 pounds each
• 1/2 pound sliced fresh mushrooms
• 1 Tbsp. butter
• 1 tsp. lemon juice
• 1/4 tsp. salt

• 5 Tbsp. butter
• 6 Tbsp. flour
• 1 Tbsp. cream
• 1 Tbsp. dry mustard
• 2 egg yolks
• 1/2 cup whipping cream
• 4 to 6 Tbsp. more whipping cream
• Pinch cayenne pepper

• 4 Tbsp. butter
• 1/3 cup cognac

• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Swiss cheese ( I use Gruyere, trust me)
• 2 Tbsp. butter , cut into bits

Directions:

Steaming the lobsters: Simmer wine, water, vegetables, herbs, and seasonings in the kettle for 15 minutes. Then bring to a rollingboil and add the live lobsters. Cover and boil for about 20 minutes. The lobsters are done when they are bright red and the long head-feelers can be pulled from the sockets fairly easily.

While the lobsters are steaming, stew the mushrooms slowly in the covered saucepan with the butter, lemon juice, and salt for 10 minutes.

The sauce: When the lobsters are done, remove them from the kettle. Pour the mushroom cooking juices into the lobster steaming juices in the kettle and boil down rapidly until liquid has reduced to about 2 1/4 cups. Strain into the 4-cup enameled or stainless steel saucepan and bring to the simmer.

Cook the butter and flour slowly together in the 1 1/2-quart saucepan for 2 minutes without browning. Off heat, beat in the simmering lobster-cooking liquid. Boil, stirring, for 1 minute. Set aside. Film top of sauce with the cream.

Split the lobsters in half lengthwise, keeping the shell halves intact. Discard sand sacks in the heads, and the intestinal tubes. Rub lobster coral and green matter through a fine sieve into the mixing bowl, and blend into it the mustard, egg yolks, cream, and pepper. Beat the sauce into this mixture by driblets.

Return the sauce to the pan, and stirring with a wooden spoon, bring it to the boil and boil slowly for 2 minutes. Thin out with tablespoons of cream. Sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon fairly heavily. Taste carefully for seasoning. Set aside, top filmed with a spoonful of cream.

Sautéing the lobster meat: Remove the meat from the lobster tails and claws, and cut it into 3/8-inch cubes. Set the skillet with the butter over moderate heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, stir in the lobster meat and sauté, stirring slowly, for about 5 minutes until the meat has turned a rosy color. Pour in the cognac and boil for a minute or two, shaking the skillet, until the liquid has reduced by half.

Final assembly: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Fold the cooked mushrooms and two thirds of the sauce into the skillet with the lobster meat. Arrange the split lobster shells in the roasting pan. Heap the lobster mixture into the shells; cover with the remaining sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter. The recipe may be prepared ahead up to this point and refrigerated.

Place in upper third of 425-degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until lobster is bubbling and the top of the sauce is nicely browned. Serve immediately on a platter or serving plates.

From Mastering The Art Of French Cooking by Julia Child
Table setting Carolyn Roehm
Photo Dorling Kindersley

Roasted Halibut With Tomato Curry Sauce

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Although we are having another cool spell here in North Georgia, I just know one of these days summer is going to be upon us and bathing suit time will be a rude awakening.  I have already crept up on those scales and what I see is not pretty so cutting fat down to 35 grams a day is my goal for the next month or so.

That doesn't mean I plan to starve or eat yucky stuff, just avoid desserts, bread, and cut back on my daily cocktail.  Oy vey, boring!

Indian food is fairly low in fat and a great alternative, particularly if you choose a recipe like this with a flavorful tomato curry sauce.  For less calories, serve it with plain white or jasmine rice instead of the cauliflower rice recipe suggested.   If dieting is not an objective, I highly recommend it. 

If you are lucky to live in an area where fresh halibut is readily available, great.  If not, remember those flash frozen packages you can find in the supermarket...not bad for second best.  I have also found fresh halibut at Costco on occasion.  Sea bass or another meaty fish is a good alternative.

You can find garam masala at most supermarkets; however, if you want to make your own, a recipe can be found at Closet Cooking here.  

Roasted Halibut with Tomato Curry Sauce
(Serves 4)

Ingredients

2 tbsp vegetable or other neutral oil

2 tbsp mild Indian curry paste (garam masala)

1 tsp grated ginger

4 pieces halibut, 5-6 ounces each


Directions

Combine oil, curry paste and ginger in a bowl. Place halibut in a glass or metal dish and brush curry paste mix all over. Leave to sit for 30 min.

Curry Sauce

1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onions

1 tbsp chopped ginger

1 tbsp chopped garlic

2 tsp. ground coriander

2 tsp ground cumin

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper (or more if you like it HOT)

1 can chopped tomatoes

1 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup coconut milk

1 to 2 tsp mango chutney

1/4 cup chopped cilantro for garnish

salt and pepper to taste


Directions

Heat vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook until softened about 8 to 10 minutes. Add ginger and garlic and continue to cook 1-2 more minutes. Stir in coriander and cumin and cook for another minute. Add cayenne, tomatoes and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add coconut milk and chutney and simmer for 10 more minutes. Taste and add more mango chutney if needed. Let cool slightly and then puree sauce with immersion blender, then stir in chopped cilantro. Set aside.

For Fish:

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Roast halibut for 10 to 15 minutes until cooked through. To serve, spoon sauce in the centre of a serving plate, top with halibut and add Cauliflower Rice Pilaf on the side.


Cauliflower Rice Pilaf

Ingredients

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onions

3 cups small cauliflower florets

1 tbsp chopped seeded green chili

1 tsp chopped garlic

2 cups basmati rice

1 cup coconut milk

1.5 cups water

1/2 tsp whole cloves

1 cinnamon stick

1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds

3 tbsp chopped mint


Directions

Heat oil in a pot over medium heat. Add onions and saute for 2 minutes or until softened. Add cauliflower and cook, stirring occasionally for 5 minutes or until lightly browned. Stir in chili and garlic and saute for 1 minute then add rice and still well. Add coconut milk, water, cloves, cinnamon stick, salt and pepper to taste.

Cover pot, turn heat to low and cook rice for 15 minutes until rice is cooked and liquid has been absorbed. Remove from heat and let stand for 5 minutes to steam before serving. Remove whole spices. Sprinkle with almonds and mint before serving.


Adapted from Food and Wine Via Closet Cooking

Memories of Berlin, Sanssouci And... Wiener Schnitzel Holstein

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This is a variation of the legendary Austrian dish and a specialty of Berlin. While Wiener Schnitzel is simply a breaded veal cutlet, it is acceptable to add a topping depending on where you eat it.

Right after the fall of the Berlin Wall I was in that city and had the opportunity to eat it this way and was hooked. It was also on that trip that I fulfilled my lifelong wish to visit Sanssouci, the summer palace of Frederick The Great in Potsdam near Berlin.

"Quand je serai là, je serai sans souci" (Once I am there, I shall be carefree)

                                                                                               Frederick the Great 1744.

After the reunification of Germany the final wish of Frederick the Great was realized. On August 17, 1991, the 205th anniversary of his death, the sarcophagus with the mortal remains of the King was laid out in the forecourt of Sanssouci palace, escorted by an honour guard of the Bundeswehr. The burial took place that night in the tomb Frederick had planned for the purpose since 1744 on the highest terrace of the vineyards that surround it. I was there much earlier, literally right after the fall and just as they were taking down the barricades, and missed seeing his grave.

If you have never visited Sanssouci I encourage you to do so as well as the Neues Palais on the western part of the park and a short walk from the summer residence. Sanssouci is a jewel of a palace, small and intimate, nothing like the grandeur of the Neues Palace which Frederick the Great built to commemorate his victories after the Seven Year's War. Architecturally, the latter rivals Versailles.  On the way back stop in Potsdam at Cecilienhof and visit the site of the conference.

Everything is in close proximity and easy to do in one day. I was lucky to travel in the car of the head of Deutsche Bank in Berlin who lent me his driver as well.  It was not only a luxury but also the only way to easily get there so soon after the fall. The palace is in the former East Germany and, although hard to imagine nowadays, to go from one side to the other in those days was quite a feat, particularly since nobody spoke English except our driver  He came along on the tour which was in German and thanks to him we were able to follow along.

I was completely unprepared for this visit and had not done as much research as I usually like to do before I visit a new place.   When after our business meeting our friend suddenly asked, "What would you like to see while you are in Berlin?" without missing a beat, I said Sanssouci! But I will never forget it for it was indeed a privilege to be there at the time. 

So that and the veal are some of my Berlin memories, although Checkpoint Charlie is not too far behind!

As to the recipe, it is very simple and straight forward. I have broken it down in case you want to omit the Holstein bit and avoid the egg. Nowadays, it is also acceptable to substitute pork for veal although, in my mind, it wouldn't be the same!

Wiener Schnitzel
Serves 4

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds veal scallops, divided by 4 and pounded thin as for scaloppini
1/2 cup flour
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup fine dry bread crumbs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons sunflower or canola oil
3 tablespoons butter
1 lemon

Directions

Place flour, eggs, and bread crumbs in 3 individual shallow dishes. Season cutlets with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour, shake of excess, dredge through egg, and last in bread crumbs.

Heat the oil in large skillet, add butter, and heat until foam subsides. Add 1 Schnitzel at a time to pan, brown from both sides about 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to plate lined with paper towels and place in 250 degree F oven to keep warm. Repeat with other Schnitzel. Serve with lemon wedges.

Holstein Variation

4 eggs
4 to 8 anchovies
8 teaspoons capers, if desired

Fry eggs and top each cutlet with an egg. Top with 1or 2 anchovy fillets and sprinkle with capers, to taste

Recipe adapted from Food Network.
Photos Google

Thai Pineapple Fried Rice With Shrimp

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I normally would not post this type of recipe until summer when I would probably feature it as a main course for a poolside buffet ; but I was so excited to try it I decided to think of it as a practice run.  It all started with leftover pineapple and  grew from there.  Although I found many recipes for this particular rice dish, the one I decided to try came from Closet Cooking, a food blogger I follow from the West Coast.  He is a wonderful source for sweet and savory ideas, particularly when it comes to Thai food.

I have made some slight changes in the directions which I think will make the recipe easier. You can buy shrimp uncooked for example and cook by stir frying on the first step.  I have also added another egg as I felt one was a little skimpy.  Also, I felt that at the end there was a need for more soy sauce and salt.   Maybe my chiles were not hot enough to begin with but I am such a baby about heat I always err on the side of bland.  You can always add but never take away and I have been burned on more than one occasion! Taste it first and see what you think.  Pork is a good substitute for the shrimp but frankly I loved it just the way it is.   Bok choy or snap peas might be a nice addition or substitution at a later date.

 If you serve it as a main course, try using large shrimp.   For a larger party, serve as an accompaniment to roast pork or spare ribs and in that case, use medium sized shrimp.

 Serve in pineapple shells if you want to impress your guests!

(makes 4 servings)

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon oil

2 shallots (sliced)

3 cloves garlic (chopped)

1 red chili (chopped)

1 red pepper (diced)

2 eggs (lightly beaten)

3 tablespoons chicken stock (or vegetable broth)

3 tablespoons fish sauce (or soy sauce)

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 cup cashews (roasted)

2 cups cooked rice (preferably a day old)

1 to 1/4 cup pineapple (cut into bite sized pieces)

1 cup shrimp (cooked)

1/2 cup peas (fresh or frozen)

1/2 cup raisins (or currants)

4 green onions (sliced)

1/4 cup cilantro (chopped)


Directions:

1. Heat the oil in a pan.  Cook shrimp (if you buy raw) until pink.  Remove to the side.

2. Add the egg and stir-fry for a minute.  Remove to the side and cut in slices.

3. Add the shallots, garlic, chillies and red pepper and stir-fry until fragrant, about a minute.


.

4. Add the chicken stock, fish sauce, curry powder and sugar and stir-fry.

5. Add the cashews and stir-fry for 30 seconds.

6. Add the rice, break up any clumps and stir-fry for a few minutes.

7. Add the pineapple, shrimp, peas and raisins and stir-fry to mix them in.  Add back the egg.

8. Remove from heat, taste for additional soy sauce and salt and serve garnished with chopped green onions and cilantro.

This recipe was adjusted on 4/22/2011






Pineapple boat photo:  D. Schmidt
All other photos Lindaraxa

Dinner After The Scavenger Hunt...Rigatoni With Eggplant And Pine Nut Crunch

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I've been dying to make this recipe since I saw it and finally last night I had the perfect excuse...a small dinner party for my daughter's friends after the office scavenger hunt to raise money for St. Jude's Children Hospital.  If you need to raise money for a worthwhile cause, this is at the top of my list.

Founded in 1962 by entertainer Danny Thomas, St. Jude's finds cures for children with cancer and other catastrophic diseases through research and treatment. It is the only pediatric cancer research center where families never pay for treatment not covered by insurance.

If you are serving dinner to a group of sweaty and tired young people who have spent their sacred Saturday looking for stuff in downtown Atlanta, it better be substantial and filling.  Be prepared for seconds and thirds ...and an early exit.

This pasta recipe was everything I was hoping for and more and it fit the occasion to a tee. The only change I made was using crushed or chopped tomatoes and stirring the cream in and adding finely diced basil and garlic.  I'll do anything to cut down on dirty bowls.  Also make sure you use a good brand of tomatoes like Pomi or Cento.

At the end I sprinkled the pine nut topping first and then the mozzarella which made for a nice golden crust on top.  I don't know if this made a difference but it worked!

This is the perfect main dish for a small and very casual dinner party, particularly if the guests are young adults; or it can be served as part of a buffet on another informal occasion.


Ingredients

•Nonstick vegetable oil spray

•1 unpeeled large eggplant (1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds), cut into 1/2-inch cubes

•2 medium yellow bell peppers, cut into 1/2-inch squares

•2 cups grape tomatoes

•3 large garlic cloves, divided

•1/3 cup olive oil

•2 cups (firmly packed) fresh basil leaves, divided

•1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided

•1/4 cup pine nuts

•1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes in juice

•1 cup heavy whipping cream

•1 pound rigatoni

•1 pound whole-milk mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (i used shredded)

Preparation

•Preheat oven to 425°F. Spray large rimmed baking sheet with nonstick spray; add eggplant and peppers. Cut tomatoes in half lengthwise; add to sheet. Using garlic press, squeeze 1 garlic clove onto vegetables. Drizzle vegetables with oil; toss. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast vegetables until tender, stirring often, 35 to 45 minutes.

•Combine 2/3 cup basil, 1/2 cup Parmesan, pine nuts, and 1 garlic clove in mini processor. Blend until crumbly. Season topping with salt.

•Blend tomatoes with juice, cream, 1 1/3 cups basil, and 1 garlic clove in processor until smooth. Season sauce with salt and pepper.*

•Cook pasta in pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally; drain. Return to pot. Toss with vegetables, sauce, and 1/2 cup Parmesan. Transfer to 13x9x2-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with mozzarella and pine nut topping.

•Bake pasta until heated through, 25 to 35 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes and serve.


Adapted from Bon Appetit

Croquettes de Crevettes...Shrimp Croquettes

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Next to chicken and serrano ham croquettes these are my favorite, particularly as a leftover alternative for shrimp.  You can roll them small for cocktails, serve them as part of a tapas buffet, or serve them for lunch with a Newburg Sauce.  Definitely a favorite of the Ladies Who Lunch, particularly if they are of a certain age.  All you need is a green salad and if you want to get really retro, add a Tomato Aspic.

Don't let croquettes intimidate you.  They are really easy to make, just a bit labor intensive.   Once you get the hang of it, you will make them with your eyes closed.  To me the worse part is rolling and breading them but once you start, you might as well make the sacrifice and double the recipe so you can freeze for another meal.  Those are the ones you really appreciate...

To get them really crunchy, make sure the oil is hot enough before you slide them in the pan.  Let them cook until brown on one side without moving them before you cook the other side. I also cook them a bit on the sides so they are completely brown.

You can serve these without the sauce but with some lemon slices on the side to squeeze on top.  In that case, a tomato aspic is really a must!

Depending on what else is on the menu, this recipe will serve 4-6 as a main course. 

Ingredients

1 pound shrimp cooked in the shell (see recipe)
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 cup milk
1/2 cup liquid in which shrimp were cooked
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons dry sherry
2 cups fine, fresh bread crumbs
Salt, if desired
Freshly ground pepper
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 egg
3 tablespoons water
Oil for deep frying
Newburg sauce (see recipe), optional

Preparation

1. Peel and devein the shrimp. Chop them finely. There should be about two cups. Set aside.
2. Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the onion. Cook until wilted, stirring with a wire whisk. Add three tablespoons of the flour and the paprika, stirring. Add the milk and shrimp liquid, stirring rapidly with the whisk.
3. When thickened and smooth, continue cooking about two minutes. Add the chopped shrimp, egg yolks and sherry. Cook briefly about 30 seconds, stirring.
4. Add half of the bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste and the cayenne. Blend well. Let stand until thoroughly cooled.
5. Divide the mixture into 16 equal portions. Shape each portion into a ball. Roll the balls in the remaining one-quarter cup of flour. Mold them into the desired form: spheres, cylinders, pyramids or flat cakes.
6. Beat the egg with the water. Roll the croquettes in the egg mixture and then in the remaining bread crumbs. Press to help crumbs adhere. Shake off excess.
7. Heat the oil for deep frying. Add the croquettes a few at a time and cook about four minutes or until golden brown. Serve, if desired, with Newburg sauce.

YIELD 16 croquettes .


Sauce Newburg


Ingredients

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

1 teaspoon paprika

2 tablespoons flour

1 cup milk

1/2 cup heavy cream

Salt, if desired

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons dry sherry

Preparation

1.Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the shallots and paprika. Cook, stirring, until shallots are wilted. Sprinkle the mixture with flour and stir with a wire whisk.

2.Add the milk, stirring vigorously with the whisk. Add the cream, salt and pepper to taste. Strain the sauce through a sieve, preferably of the sort known in French kitchens as a chinois. Press with a spatula to extract as much liquid as possible from the shallots. Reheat and add the sherry.

YIELD  About one and one-half cups .


Adapted from the New York Times

A Recipe From the Party Of The Century!

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A post from fellow blogger Little Augury reminded me of this recipe which was published in the book Party of the Century: The Fabulous Story of Truman Capote and His Black and White Ball  It is the story of Capote's party for some 500 of his most influential and aristocratic friends given at the Plaza Hotel in 1966.   At the expense of  dating myself, I remember that party and all the hoopla surrounding it.  Every day we opened the New York papers to yet another saga in the evolution of this grand event.  Who was invited, who had left town, who was wearing what, and on and on...  The party made headlines not only for its lavish details but also for all the enemies poor Truman made by not inviting them to his party.  It is a most entertaining book and a perfect one for lazy summer afternoon.

Capote with Kay Graham, the honored guest

Frank Sinatra and Mia Farrow

Two of Capote's swans Gloria Guiness and Babe Paley with Bill Paley

Truman Capote loved the Plaza Hotel.  He "frequented Trader Vic's for Polynesian fare, the Palm Court for Tea an the Oak Room which had the old moneyed atmosphere of a gentleman's club for lunch.  His favorite dish was the Plaza's signature Chicken Hash, an uptown spin on a dinner classic, refined by the use of chicken instead of corned beef." from The party of the century

The Plaza Hotel in the 60's was a one stop gathering place for both young and old of a "certain" class.  I remember staying at the hotel with my grandfather en route to boarding school interviews and having lunch in a little veiled hat at the Oak Room.  We had a suite at the hotel (we were still under the delusion Castro would stay but a few months) with two connecting bedrooms and a living room so large you couldn't see the concert piano at first glance.  Later on,  I remember taking the train into the city and after an afternoon of shopping at Best & Co. where my grandmother kept a charge account for me (still delusional) making our last stop at Trader Vic's to enjoy one of those umbrella topped Polynesian concoctions and spare ribs.  It wasn't until later, when I was married, that tea at the Palm Court became de rigueur after a day of serious shopping at nearby Bergdorf's and Bendel's.  But the best, oh yes the very best, was a two month stay at the Plaza while I was "studying" for my Series 7 exam with Merrill Lynch.  That is too long a story and definitely not for this blog! All I can say, is imagine arriving "home" everyday to the tunes emanating from the Palm Court!

One of the great things about the book is looking through the guest list, too long to publish here. 

Do get this book if you haven't read it.  Now that I have it in my hands I think I will give it another read.  Thanks Gaye for reminding me! great excuse for putting down my current reading Crisis Economics: A Crash Course in the Future of Finance by Nouriel Roubini, which is very good but definitely not for fun.

But on to the Chicken Hash.....By the way, the other entree was spaghetti and meatballs.  Thank heavens Truman Capote became famous as a writer.  I don't think he would have ever made it as a party planner!

Recipe For Plaza Chicken Hash

4 Cups finely diced cooked chicken (white meat only)

1 1/2 C heavy cream

1 C cream sauce (bechamel)

2 tsps salt

1/8 tsp white pepper

1/4 C dry Sherry

1/2 C Hollandaise Sauce

Mix chicken, cream, Cream Sauce, and seasonings in a heavy skillet.  Cook over moderate heat, stirring often for about 10 minutes.  When moisture is slightly reduced, place skillet in a moderate oven 350 and bake 30 minutes.  Stir in Sherry and return to oven for 10 minutes.  Lightly fold in Hollandaise Sauce and serve at once.  Makes 4-5 servings.

There must have been an excess of cream at the Plaza's kitchen on the day they invented this sauce.  Can you imagine, heavy cream AND cream sauce AND Hollandaise for that small amount of chicken? makes my arteries clog just thinking about it.  Needless to say I have never tried this recipe so proceed at your own risk!