Reviving A Classic...Tomato Aspic Before And After!

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Tomato aspic is one of those dishes that was all the rage in the 30's 40's and 50's.  I caught the tail end of the furor, maybe had it once or twice when I was young; but all of a sudden, like everything else, poof! it disappeared.  Nowadays when I think of it, I think of lace tablecloths, transferware china and those little crochet doilies they used to place on top of old silver.  Kind of a comforting, fuzzy wussy feeling.

This afternoon, while having a light Sunday lunch of cold shrimp, sliced tomatoes and my Mother's potato salad (here we call that light), I started thinking about this old classic. It was always a sure candidate for a cold buffet in the summer, and definitely a favorite of the ladies who lunch. Their taste hasn't varied that much so why did it disappear? Well, like every popular recipe, sometimes people don't know when to stop. These days it's Cowboy Caviar, in my day it was the Mexican Layer Dip. They last a summer or two and then they too disappear from the radar. Tomato aspic, on the other hand, held its ground for a long time so I think it's time to bring it back.  Now that I am a grandmother again and I am usually in charge of the Christening brunch, I think it will make its debut at my table in a month or two.

Now I have seen tomato aspic being served at Thanksgiving, but this I don't understand.  Somehow, in my mind,  it is hard to envision it served with the likes of sweet potatoes and cranberries.  In my day, it was usually served as a first course for lunch or as part of a buffet.

Since as a cook I am very traditional and this is definitely a very Southern dish, I have gone to Lee Bailey's Southern Food And Plantation Houses Cookbook for his recipe.  It is the one that was used by his family's cook who always made extra to serve later with sandwiches.  I think the best accompaniment for this aspic is shrimp or crab, and that is how I usually serve it.  Although it can be served in winter as well as summer, it is most refreshing at this time of the year.

Aspic server - Revere byWilcox And Evertson

I have posted a few pictures showing the different molds you can use.  If you use the top one, the center can be filled with mayonnaise or with cold shrimp or crab meat salad.  If you use the one at the bottom, serve the mayonnaise in a silver gravy boat or glass bowl.  Below, you will find a photo of tomato aspic served as a first course.

Lee Bailey's Tomato Aspic

Printable Recipe

Serves 12

Ingredients

2 envelopes unflavored jello

1/2 cup boiling water

3 cups tomato juice, warmed (I use Campbell's)

1 small onion, very finely  minced

2 ribs celery, very finely minced

2 tsps worcestershire sauce

1 TB freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 tsp.Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 tsp Tabasco sauce

8 ounces cream cheese

mayonnaise


Procedure

Pour the hot water into a shallow bowl and sprinkle gelatin over it.  When gelatin is dissolved, stir in the warmed tomato juice, making sure all the lumps are gone.  If they persist, reheat the mixture briefly.  Stir in all other ingredients except the cream cheese and cool slightly.

Meanwhile, divide the cream cheese by spoonfuls among 12 1/2 cup molds.  Pour tomato mixture in each and refrigerate until set, several hours.

To serve, run a knife around the mold and unmold.  If you have a hard time, place the mold briefly in warm water before trying again.

Serve with homemade mayonnaise or a very good commercial one.  I use Hellman's made with olive oil.  Here in the South they love Duke's.

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Now, let me show you a very sexy variation I came across in a website on Thai cuisine.  I have no idea why they use both gin and vodka, but I'm game!

Kung Phet Aspic ( Spicy Prawns in Aspic)

Photo Flickr Scott Partee

Ingredients:

•2 Tbsp gelatin

•60ml (1/4 cup)cold water

•850ml tomato juice

•120ml (4 oz or 1/2 cup) vodka

•60ml (2 oz or 1/4 cup) gin

•2 tsp Worcestershire sauce

•3 tsp sugar

•1/4 tsp salt

•1/4 tsp celery salt

•1 tsp vinegar

•1 Tbsp catsup

•1/4 tsp mustard powder

•450g (~1 lb) cooked prawns, shelled and de-veined

•120g (4 oz) Chinese celery, diced

•140g ( 4 1/2 oz) cucumber, peeled, de-seeded, diced and drained

•60g (2 oz) spring onions, chopped

•celery leaves, fresh parsley and cucumber slices, to garnish

Method:

1.Place the cold water in a heat-proof cup then sprinkle the gelatin over the top.

2.Place the cup in a small saucepan containing some water.

3.Place over gently heat and cook, stirring constantly, until all the gelatin dissolves.

4.Take off the heat and set aside.

5.In the meantime, combine the tomato juice, vodka, gin, Worcestershire sauce, sugar, salt, celery salt, vinegar, catsup and mustard powder.

6.Stir to combine then add the gelatin and mix thoroughly.

7.Set aside until slightly thickened.

8.Take a 2 litre (4 cup) mold and grease this lightly.

9.Set in a bowl containing ice cubes then spoon a little of the aspic mix into the base (about 3mm deep) of the mold.

10.When this has set arrange a ring of the prawns decoratively on the aspic.

11.Now mix the remaining prawns the celery, cucumber and spring onions with the remaining aspic.

12.Pour into the mold and chill thoroughly until set.

13.When ready, warm gently then turn onto a serving plate.

14.Garnish with the celery leaves, fresh parsley cucumber slices then serve with Remoulade Sauce.


Remoulade Sauce

Ingredients:

•1 1/2 cups thick mayonnaise

•2 Tbsp grated horseradish

•1/2 cup Creole mustard (or prepared yellow mustard)

•1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

•1 tsp hot pepper sauce Tabasco or Linghams

•1/2 cup finely diced green onions

•1/4 cup finely diced Chinese celery

•2 tbsp minced garlic

•1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

•1/2 tbsp lemon juice

•salt and cracked black pepper to taste

Method:

1.In a mixing bowl, combine all of the above ingredients, whisking well to incorporate the seasonings.

2.Once blended, cover and place in the refrigerator overnight.

3. When ready, remove from refrigerator and adjust seasonings to taste.

no copyright

Cipollini In Agrocolce...Sweet And Sour Onions

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I just came back from shopping at one of my favorite grocery stores in Miami where I have been taking care of my mother who fell last week and broke her shoulder.  My shopping list was short but as I cut through the produce department, I spotted a basket full of these small onions and remembered a recipe I had saved but never posted.  I don't know how long they will be around but hurry up and look for some at the supermarket and make sure you try this wonderful recipe.

Pronounced chip-oh-LEE-nee this is a smaller, flat, pale onion. The flesh is a slight yellowish color and the skins are thin and papery. The color of the skin ranges from pale yellow to the light brown color of Spanish onions. These are sweeter onions, having more residual sugar than garden-variety white or yellow onions, but not as much as shallots.

The advantage to cipollinis is that they are small and flat and the shape lends them well to roasting. This combined with their sweetness makes for a lovely addition to recipes where you might want to use whole caramelized onions. They can be a little difficult to find as they are not as popular as other varieties but specialty markets and grocery stores should have them, particularly at this time of the year. They are harvested in autumn and may not be easily available year round (or quite expensive in other seasons).

This dish is beloved in Rome, where it pairs naturally with roasted meats like porchetta. In case you haven't had it, porchetta is a savory, fatty, moist boneless pork roast stuffed with herbs, placed on a spit and very slowly roasted over a wood burning stove for many, many hours. Sounds good doesn't it? Well, I don't have a recipe, but I do have a recipe for roasted pork shoulder. The cipollini would also be great served with a simple pork roast or pork chops, preferably cooked on the grill. Why don't you try that next Saturday night?


Printable Recipe

SERVES 4 – 6

Ingredients

1⁄2 cup raisins

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 1⁄2 lbs. cipolline or pearl onions, peeled

1⁄4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 1⁄2 tbsp. sugar

Kosher salt, to taste

Directions

1. Put raisins into a small bowl; cover with hot water and let soften for 30 minutes.

2. Heat oil in a 12" skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook until golden brown, 8–10 minutes; pour off oil. Drain raisins. Add raisins, vinegar, and sugar and season with salt. Cook, stirring, until sauce thickens, 2–3 minutes.



Photo: Todd Coleman
Recipe Saveur

Coffee Caramel Creme Brulee

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Did you miss this recipe when it came out in Bon Appetit last year? If so here it is and keep it close to your heart.  I love coffee anything...as a matter of fact, I love caramel too, so this is a double whammy for me!


Ingredients

2 cups heavy whipping cream, divided

1/4 cup dark-roast coffee beans (such as French roast; about 3/4 ounce), crushed with mallet in plastic bag

1 cup sugar, divided

1/2 cup water

2 cups half and half

8 large egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon salt

8 teaspoons raw sugar*


Preparation


Bring 1 cup cream and coffee beans to simmer in heavy small saucepan. Remove from heat; cover and let steep at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 325°F. Stir 2/3 cup sugar and 1/2 cup water in heavy medium saucepan over low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to boil, brushing down sides of pan with wet pastry brush. Boil without stirring until syrup is deep amber, swirling pan occasionally, about 11 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Add remaining 1 cup whipping cream (mixture will bubble up). Stir over low heat until caramel is smooth. Stir in half and half. Strain coffee-infused cream into caramel cream; discard coffee beans in strainer.

Whisk yolks, salt, and remaining 1/3 cup sugar in large bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in cream mixture. Strain custard into large measuring cup.

Arrange eight 2/3-to 3/4-cup ramekins or custard cups in roasting pan. Divide custard among ramekins. Add enough warm water to roasting pan to come halfway up sides of ramekins or custard cups.

Bake custards until just set in center, 65 to 70 minutes. Transfer custards from water bath directly to refrigerator. Chill uncovered until cold, at least 3 hours and up to 1 day.

Sprinkle top of each custard with 1 teaspoon raw sugar. Using kitchen torch, melt sugar on each custard until deep amber. (Alternatively, preheat broiler. Arrange custards on small rimmed baking sheet; broil until sugar topping melts and browns, about 2 minutes.) Refrigerate custards until sugar topping hardens, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour (do not chill longer than 1 hour or topping will start to soften). Serve custards cold.

* Also called turbinado or demerara sugar; available at most supermarkets and at natural foods stores

Recipe courtesy Epicurious March 2009

Roasted Fingerling Potatoes With Rosemary And Thyme

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I am embarrased to say I have never had fingerling potatoes until a couple of nights ago.  I saw them at the farmers market and decided to buy some  in lieu of the red potatoes I usually like to have on hand. Boy, am I glad I did. They are like butter!   I will have to say, though, that I adapted this recipe quite liberally,  or should I say, extensively.  Between us chickens, I didn't bother with the food processor and took out the original sage, as I love rosemary on potatoes and didn't want something else to interfere. There is no question that if you blend all the ingredients the flavor will be more intense.  Whatever method you use, I guarantee you will be in for a nice surprise.  Quick and easy to boot. 

I tell you, if you want to cook and eat well , there are really no excuses.  That same night we had a steak on the grill and avocado and tomato salad.  It took less than 20 minutes to prepare and 45 minutes cooking time because of the potatoes. As Ina says, how easy can that be!

Printable Recipe

Ingredients

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon kosher salt

4 pounds fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Freshly ground pepper

Directions

1.Preheat the oven to 425°. In a mini food processor, pulse the rosemary and thyme until finely chopped. Add the lemon zest and pulse to blend. Add the salt and pulse until finely ground. Transfer the herb salt to a small bowl.

2.In a large bowl, toss the potatoes with the oil and butter and season with pepper. Spread the potatoes in a single layer season generously with the herb salt, toss well and roast for 25 minutes or until the potatoes are tender and golden. Transfer to a bowl and serve hot or warm.


Adapted from a recipe by Melissa Rubbel
Photo Lindaraxa

Poolside With The Ladies Who Lunch

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An Elegant Summer Menu for the Ladies Who Lunch was such a popular post that you will definitely be hearing from these ladies again, as in right now.

There is no question that we plan differently when we have our girlfriends over than when it is a mixed bag.  Although it's been proven to be incorrect, supposedly men don't eat quiche. Ha! Wrong! it was a favorite of husband #2.  And girls, eh ladies, don't like to bother with ribs or Sausage, Peppers, and Onion Sandwiches.  Wrong again! This lady loves both.  But I have to admit that there are some menus that definitely are more apropos not only for the different sexes but for the time and place.

The ladies who lunch usually take a break in the summer when they relocate to the Hamptons, Newport, Maine, the Riviera and other marvelous summer getaways.  Some husbands have to work and get only to enjoy their summer houses on weekends;  but we don't worry about them, we know they too look forward to their yearly vacation* in the city (*wink).  So, on these summer days, when it's too hot to get out of the house, why not have a fun group of close friends over for a simple and casual lunch by the pool?  This is your chance to show off that new bathing suit (Size 0), bring out the big floppy hat, lather yourself with the new sun block #250 and get ready for some fun time.

I know I'm taking a lot for granted, like you don't work, have no children, have a pool and can take a few hours to loll away the afternoon eating and gossiping with your friends.  Well, if you live in Georgia and are on your 53rd day of mid 90's degree weather, even if you are not part of this lucky group,  you are entitled to that and more.   Now remember, this is a very casual and intimate lunch, the gossipy kind!

Poolside Lunch

Campari Orange Spritzers

Pimiento Cheese Spread

Shrimp With Avocado Mango Salsa

Chewy Butterscotch Bars

Espresso

Other menus you might want to check out:

An Elegant Summer Menu For The Ladies Who Lunch 
Let's Do Lunch In Cap Ferrat
Poolside With The Ladies Who Lunch
An Elegant Fall Menu For The Ladies Who Lunch
Mother's Day Lunch, Retro Style  

Images Getty (McKellar) 

Tomatoes Stuffed With Green Rice

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During the summer months, ripe red tomatoes bursting with a rice stuffing are a staple antipasto of Roman trattorias. They can also be served as a first course or would go well with the Stuffed Roast Pork Tenderloin, served hot or cold.


Ingredients:

1/2 cup medium-grain white rice such as arborio

Salt, to taste

4 large tomatoes

2 Tbs. olive oil

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh basil, plus whole leaves for garnish

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 Tbs. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 small garlic clove, finely chopped

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

Directions:

Bring a saucepan filled with water to a boil. Add the rice and salt and simmer until the rice is about half cooked, 9 to 10 minutes. Drain, place in a large bowl and set aside.

Preheat an oven to 350°F. Oil a baking dish just large enough to hold the tomatoes snugly.

Cut off a slice 1/2 inch thick from the top of each tomato and reserve. Using a small spoon, scoop out the tomato seeds and juice and place in a sieve set over a bowl. Arrange the tomatoes in the prepared baking dish.

Add to the rice the strained tomato juice, the olive oil, chopped basil, parsley, cheese, garlic, salt and pepper and mix well. Spoon the rice mixture into the hollowed-out tomatoes, dividing evenly. Cover each tomato with its top.

Bake until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve hot or at room temperature, garnished with the whole basil leaves.


Recipe courtesy Williams Sonoma

We Are Having a Baby, My Baby And Me!

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This has to be one of the most endearing of all the Lucy/Desi episodes.  For those of you wondering, My Baby in this case is my son Ted and the Me, well that would be my daughter in law, Jan Marie of Asian Style Salmon Jan Marie fame.

                                         

These days when you know everything about everything, including sex, time and place and possibly even weight, we know that my second grandchild, a boy, will be born this Sunday, sometime around noon.  Gee, I can even look up his horoscope and if I don't like the Ascendant (determined by time of day), maybe we can delay the birth an hour or two? Somehow, I don't think that will fly. .  Well, in any event, we are all soooooooo excited and cant' wait for the newest cook in the family to be born.  How do I know he will be a great cook? In this family we start them early.  We have to give them a head start otherwise they will never survive the onslaught of lifetime criticism they will endure from the rest of the family cooks.  In this family, we take no prisoners!

My granddaughter's first cooking lesson...age 4 weeks!

I will have to say, and believe me, I am NOT bragging, that I am happy my granddaughter eats everything, from avocados to blueberries.  When she comes to my house and I ask what to cook for her, her mother tells me she'll eat whatever we are having, and she does.  I will be eternally grateful to my daughter in law for introducing her to a variety of fruits and vegetables and different types of food at this early age.  If there is something I can't stand is kids and adults who have pet peeves about food.  Oh, oh, and she drinks water when she is thirsty, none of this juice thing, WATER!  I tell you,  this kid is well on her way to perfect nutrition!

The product of good nutrition!

One of the things that got the ball rolling was a gift my daughter gave them (at my suggestion) of the Beaba Babycook Baby Food Maker available at Williams Sonoma.  It got my daughter in law making her real food from the start instead of  feeding her baby food from a jar.  From then on,  there was no turning back.  I think it is the best gift you can give an expectant  mother.  

Well, I guess what I'm also trying to say is that Lindaraxa will be very busy for the rest of the month, enjoying and helping with her new grand baby and will not be posting as often as she would like to.  But I'll be back full force in September... with pictures!

Take the time to look over the Master Recipe Index on the right.  I'm sure there is plenty of stuff you haven't seen or made.  Well, I don't know why I'm so concerned.  After all, I'm not your analyst taking the month of August and worried you will all be pregnant when I come back.  That's what usually happens, or so I hear!