Showing posts with label tidbits. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tidbits. Show all posts

Friday, September 24, 2010

Roast Quail With Fresh Figs And Balsamic

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This is the recipe that finally made me break down and buy demi glace.  For those of you who don't know about demi glace, it is the basis of all great sauces. It is traditionally made by combining equal parts of veal stock and sauce espagnole, the latter being one of the five mother sauces of classical French cuisine.  The mixture is then simmered and reduced by half. Wish it were that simple. The process is a long one, long enough for me to encourage you to buy a good demi glace and forget about making it from scratch.  Williams Sonoma has a great product and although it is expensive, it is well worth the cost and it goes a long way.  For most sauces you will only need a tablespoon or two.  Get the veal one, it is the mother of all demi glaces. 

You can also get a less expensive demi glace through Amazon. It is the one I used in this recipe and it is excellent.  It is good for 6 servings.


More Than Gourmet Demi-glace De Veau Gold® French Veal Demi-glace, 1.5-Ounce Units (Pack of 6)


This recipe is not as much trouble as it looks and most of it can be made the day before.  It is a wonderful main course for a dinner party, one in which you will surely impress your dinner guests.  I would suggest though that you make it for a group of close friends.  This is definitely not for elegant entertaining...you want to be able to get at those little morsels next to the bone and the picture won't be dainty but definitely worth the effort.  I have had quail before at a restaurant and unfortunately was not able to enjoy it to the fullest. This time, I made sure I got every bite and then some!  The stuffing is to die for and can definitely be served  with something else such as cornish hens.

This is your chance to get out your finger bowls and nobody will call you a snob.  They are much needed in a dinner like this and instead of using a pretty flower, I would go straight for a thin slice of lemon.  You will need it to wipe your dainty little fingers after you finish off those birds!

You will find quail at some grocery stores in the frozen meat bin but if you are lucky and live near Atlanta, you can find it fresh at the DeKalb Farmer's Market.  They are tiny little things, so get at least 3 per person. The market also had demi glace at a good price so I hit the jackpot!


Figs before browning


The stuffing


The sauce before the demi glace


After the demi glace...almost done!


The little quails before they went in the oven


Just out of the oven with figs in back




Printable Recipe

Serves 4

Ingredients

For stuffing

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

1 large garlic clove, finely chopped

1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter

1/3 cup veal demi-glace

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon fig balsamic vinegar

3/4 cup chopped walnuts (2 oz)

2/3 cup soft dried Mission figs (1/4 lb), stems discarded and figs finely chopped

1 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For figs and sauce

1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter

1 pt fresh figs, stems discarded and figs halved lengthwise

1/4 cup finely chopped shallot

1/4 cup finely chopped celery

1 cup dry red wine

1 1/3 cups veal demi-glace

1 teaspoon arrowroot or cornstarch

2 tablespoons fig balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For quail

12 semiboneless quail

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Special equipment: kitchen string; wooden picks


Preparation

Make stuffing:

Cook onion, celery, and garlic in butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until pale golden, about 10 minutes. Add demi-glace and boil, stirring occasionally, until most of liquid is evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in tarragon, vinegar, walnuts, dried figs, bread crumbs, salt, and pepper, then spread stuffing on a plate to cool.

Prepare figs and make sauce:

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then brown figs, cut sides down, without stirring, about 3 minutes. Transfer figs to a bowl with a slotted spatula. Add shallot and celery to skillet and sauté, stirring, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add wine and 8 to 10 browned fig halves (reserve remainder) and boil, stirring and mashing figs, until wine is reduced to a syrup, about 5 minutes. Stir in demi-glace and bring to a boil. Stir arrowroot into vinegar until dissolved, then add to skillet, whisking to incorporate. Boil sauce 2 minutes, then pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a 2-quart heavy saucepan, pressing on and then discarding solids. Stir in tarragon, salt, and pepper.

Prepare quail:

Discard any disposable metal skewers from cavity of each quail, then rinse quail inside and out and pat dry. Stuff 1 quail with a scant 1/4 cup stuffing, pressing and shaping it to fill out breast. Tie legs together with string and push legs up against body. Thread cavity closed with a wooden pick. Repeat with remaining quail.

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400°F.

Sprinkle quail all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon each butter and oil in cleaned 10-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then brown 6 quail on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Transfer with tongs to a large shallow baking pan. Wipe skillet clean and brown remaining 6 quail in same manner in remaining tablespoon each of butter and oil.

Remove strings and picks from all quail, then roast quail, breast sides up, until just cooked through (check inner thigh —, 20 minutes. Add reserved browned figs to pan for last 2 to 3 minutes of roasting.

While quail roast, return sauce to a simmer, then add remaining 2 tablespoons butter, whisking until incorporated.

Transfer quail and figs to a serving dish and pour any juices from baking pan into sauce. Serve quail with sauce.

Cooks' notes:

Stuffing can be made 1 day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before proceeding. Figs and sauce (without remaining 2 tablespoons butter) can be prepared 1 day ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled separately, covered. Bring sauce to a simmer before adding butter. Quail can be browned 1 hour before roasting. Keep quail, uncovered, at room temperature.

Wine: A red Burgundy or Oregon Pinot Noir such as Domaine Drouhin

Adapted from Gourmet Magazine
All photos Lindaraxa

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Lindaraxa's Tidbits...Kitchen Knives

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When I first started this blog, my brother suggested I write an article about knives, particularly those that are essential in everyone's  kitchen.  Of course I forgot all about it but David Leibowitz has written a great one which appeared on his blog about four months ago.  Since I know a lot of my readers might not have knowledge of his blog,  I am giving you the link and strongly suggest you check it out.  It is everything you need to know and more.

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2010/05/how_to_take_care_of_your_knives.html

It never amazes me to see all the unnecessary gadgets people keep in their kitchens;  but ask for a knife and you are in for a big surprise.  Usually they will open a drawer and there amongst all the cooking spoons, graters etc, you will find a couple of dull knives.   Amazing.

If you don't have good sharp knives in your kitchen, you can't possibly be serious about cooking.  It is the one thing you shouldn't even think of skimping on.  Spend the money on good quality knives and sharpeners and cooking will be a breeze.  Good chefs bring their own knives when they are on the road, that's how important they are.

My favorite knives:


Zwilling J.A. Henckels Twin Cuisine 10-Piece Knife Block Set

Multicolored paring knives
You do not need to spend a fortune on your knives.  Calphalon, for example has a very good line of knives, fairly priced and quite attractive.  I gave my daughter a set a few years ago and they are still in great shape. I consider them as good as my Henckels, hardly notice much difference at all.

 If you don't have a Santoku knife, you don't know what you are missing.  I honestly don't know what I would do or how I got along all these years without one.  It is the one knife I use every day for chopping vegetables, especially onions, celery and carrots as well as herbs, and for mashing garlic.  It will even slice for you.  Indispensable.  If you can only buy one good knife make it this one, whether its Calphalon or Henckle or any other good brand that is on sale.


Calphalon 7 inch Santoku knife


The second knife I use the most is the serrated bread knife, not only for bread but to slice tomatoes when they are very mushy.  What I really need is a serrated utility knife but I keep forgetting to get one!





Next come the pairing knives, the slicing knife and the scissors, although I have a separate pair to cut poultry.  I don't use the butcher knife as much, but it is essential if you need to cut beef as in shish kabobs, or trim fat off.  A boning knife is also useful, although not absolutely necessary.

As for steak knives, never get serrated ones, they tear on the meat.  My favorite, of course are the Laguiole, made in France but there are many good brands around. Just not serrated!


Laguiole steak knives


Two simple rules to remember:

Never put your knives in the dishwasher.  Wash them by hand, dry them and place them back in the wood block.  If you must place them in a drawer, place them on  a plastic sheath before you put them away.

If you have marble or granite counter tops, never ever cut on them. The most common cause of wear of the cutting edge of a knife is due to contact with the cutting board surface. Boards made of glass, ceramic, marble etc are completely useless, they damage the cutting edge in the first cut. Wooden and plastic boards are better and have a much lower dulling effect.

Check out the Williams-Sonoma website for more information and check out their sale on kitchen knives.  Some are half price.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Forever Amber: Cognac, Armagnac and Calvados

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When it comes to brandies, nothing competes with France's amber trio,  Cognac, Armagnac and Calvados, each a pure product of its own terroir. Cognac comes from a sector of chalky soil near the town it's named for, in the Charentes region north of Bordeaux. The area's white wines were little more than swill for British seamen until double-distillation was tried in the 17th century. Now double-distilled in gleaming onion dome-shaped vats, cognac is aged in barrels of Limousin or Tronçais oak.




My favorite!

Armagnac's territory lies south of the Garonne river in the Midi-Pyrénées region once known as Gascony, of Musketeer fame. Made with white wine from three areas—in ascending order of excellence, Haut-Armagnac, Ténarèze and Bas Armagnac—it's produced in complicated stills known as alambics using a distinct, continuous-distillation process, and aged in oak.. Racy armagnac is dry and velvety smooth, with a generous aroma and a long-lasting aftertaste.  For a wonderful article on Armagnac check out France Today's article by Chris Redman.


Armagnac aging in "Paradis" at the Château de Laubade

Apple orchards replace vineyards in Normandy, where Calvados, familiarly called calva, was named after one of the departments in which it's made—double-distilled from apple mash fermented with yeast. First recorded in the 16th century, calva is the basis of the true Normand, the pause during a hearty meal for a nip to aid digestion and revive the appetite.

Adapted from the December 2007 issue of France Today



Lindaraxa's Tidbits...The Best Glasses

Remember those brandy snifters? Throw them out! No longer acceptable if you are a serious Cognac, Armagnac or Calvados drinker!



Believe it or not, the traditional snifter is not the ideal choice of stemware for the enjoyment of fine French brandy. The best glass for this purpose has a rounded belly with a tapered chimney. If you don't have glasses like this, use a tulip-shaped champagne glass, not a snifter. It may feel strange at first to drink your Armagnac from a champagne flute, but you'll be rewarded with a better drinking experience

Here's what you need to get! This glass is from Riedel.




Oh, I know, nobody is going to throw away those snifters and buy new ones. But if you are in the market for new cognac glasses, make sure you get the right ones.  At the risk of getting killed, I am seriously considering getting a couple of these, at least for my own enjoyment.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Lindaraxa's Tidbits...How to Cook, Serve and Eat An Artichoke

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Artichokes are probably one of the most intimidating vegetables on the face of the earth, but if you've ever had one, especially with hollandaise sauce, you know they are divine!

My husband used to say it was the only vegetable where you ended up with more on your plate when you finished than when you started.  Artichokes were also my son's favorite vegetable when he was in kindergarten. One day I got a phone call from his teacher who wanted to share with me what had happened at school when she asked the class to write down their favorite things.  When it came to food, most kids wrote down things like hot dogs, pizza, hamburgers etc.  then she saw my son raise his hand to ask "How do you spell artichokes with hollandaise sauce?"  True story, no joke.Yes, my children were introduced to everything from an early age and if it took hollandaise to get them to eat artichokes, I am still grateful!.

There is no reason to be put off by the sight of an artichoke.  They are very easy to cook.

Choose globes that are dark green, heavy, and have "tight" leaves

Cooking Artichokes

Cut the stem to about 1 inch so they will lay down flat on your plate.  Put them on top of a steamer inside a big pot and steam for about 45 minutes.  You will know when they are done if when you stick a knife through the stalk  it is soft like a potato when its done. That's it!  You can serve them cold with a French vinaigrette or hot with my favorite,  hollandaise sauce.  For my easy, no fail recipes go here





Serving artichokes.

There are beautiful artichoke plates you can buy, or you can simply serve them on a regular plate with a bowl on the side to place the discarded leaves.  You will need a knife and a fork for when you get to the best part, the heart.  I always serve them as a first course so they can shine on their own!.  The hollandaise is passed around so everyone can take a couple of spoonfuls and place in their plates to dip the leaves and later eat with the heart.  Same with a vinaigrette, except in that case, everything is served cold and you should really cut the top third of the artichoke before you steam them.  It makes for a nicer presentation and you can drizzle some of the vinaigrette inside.





 These are my plates. Notice at left is a place for the sauce.


How to eat an artichoke

Start by pulling off one of the outermost petals.  It is both proper and polite to pluck the leaves with your fingers, leaving fork and knife aside for now. Pull off a leaf, holding it by the pointed end. If you're provided with a dip such as a vinaigrette or mayonnaise, put a small part of the edible portion of the leaf in the dip and scrape with your teeth. Don't overdo it on the dip or you won't taste the artichoke. (the edible portion of the leaves becomes greater as you get closer to the center of the artichoke). Discard remainder (you'll want to have an empty bowl ready in which to drop them).


Just before you get to the very center, leaves will become almost white with purple tips. Be careful of these leaves because their purple ends are prickly.

When the leaves are pulled, you will be left with the base, the heart, crowned with a fuzzy patch. You have now reached the best part of all, the very reason for eating artichokes: the heart. Carefully scoop away the fuzzy stuff with your knife or spoon. With knife and fork, cut bites from the heart like pieces of prime fillet.







Here's a video:
http://www.oceanmist.com/products/how-to-prepare/how-to-eat-an-artichoke.aspx
 

Finger Bowls
 
If you have them, this is the time to use them!



Wine Pairings

If eating with a hollandaise sauce, a dry French Chardonnay or Fume Blanc is best.  Be conscious of the fact that after eating an artichoke, the red wine served with the main course may taste a bit acidic.  A piece of bread after finishing the artichoke and before tasting the wine will help.





...more tidbits!

First developed in Sicily, Italy, artichokes were brought to this country (California) by the Spaniards in 1600's but did not become popular until the 1920's.  They were the third largest crop in the valley in 1929.

Did you know Marilyn Monroe was crowned Artichoke Queen in 1948? That made them super popular afterwards!

80% of the artichokes in the US are grown in Castroville, CA, 98 miles south of San Francisco (been there!)

The thicker the stalk, the bigger the heart!

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Lindaraxa's Tidbits...Finger Bowls

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Finger bowls are pretty additions to the dinner table and look particularly attractive with flowers floating on them.  I remember in my grandmother's house they sometimes had a thin slice of lemon floating in the water in lieu of a flower.  As a child, I was often reprimanded and reminded they were not for taking a bath.

The origins of the finger bowl go back to the time when people ate their meals largely with their fingers.  In the past, a diner might dip his napkin into the finger-bowl and wipe his mouth and chin, or even rinse his mouth with the water from the finger-bowl and then spit into it.  This was very definitely before my time! Today, a finger-bowl is used for fingertips only, which are then dried daintily with the napkin on one's lap.

Finger-bowls are particularly welcome if whole artichokes, shellfish or asparagus (in Europe they are picked up and eaten with your hands) is on the menu.  At very formal dinners, they are brought in on the dessert plates (usually on top of a lace doily) with the dessert spoons and forks.  When the finger bowl arrives, the guest should dip fingertips in the finger bowl, one hand at a time, wipe them on his or her napkin, and then remove the finger bowl and doily to the upper left side of the place setting. Then take the silver pieces and place them on either side of the plate -- fork on the left, spoon on the right. The large plate is now ready for dessert. Alternatively, if the finger bowl is just brought on top of a decorative or silver plate,with no utensils, and there is someone serving the table, usually a la russe, leave it in front of you after you finish dipping and drying your fingers.  It will then be removed by the server and the dessert plate and utensils placed in front of you .  This was the way it was done in my home, but nowadays, chances are the former is the way to go. Just watch the hostess,  if in doubt.

Finger- bowls come in all manners:


In silver
in pewter


crystal


in pretty colors



with lime slices



or rose petals


Doilies for Finger Bowls



Battenberg Lace




Cambridge Lace


Cotton Lace Crochet


My favorite

Never, never, never use paper lace doilies!!!

As with everything nowadays, here's a video that will help you.

And here's an interesting article from the New York Times, published many moons ago!
http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?_r=1&res=9A01EFD7173EE033A25753C3A9639C946897D6CF
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