Tagliatelle With Morels And Pancetta In a Cream Sauce

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The trick to this recipe is to make enough sauce to save for the next day's lunch over toast!

You can make the sauce earlier in the day and cook the pasta at the last minute.The perfect dinner for two with leftovers to die for or an elegant first course for a formal dinner party.

Ingredients

1 ounce dried morels (that's a handful in my book!)
1/2 cup pancetta, diced in small cubes
2 tbs olive oil
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 cup Mornay Sauce
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup Gruyere cheese
1/4 tsp nutmeg
Salt and white pepper

Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano

1/2 lbs tagliatelle or fettucine

Soften the morels in warm water for 30 minutes. When soft, remove from the water and place in a colander to dry.  Dry thoroughly with a towel and cut some of the big ones in half.

In a skillet, cook the pancetta in the oil until crisp.  Remove and set aside.
Cook the diced shallots and the morels in medium heat for about 3 minutes..  Add the parsley. Add the wine, raise the temperature and reduce to about 2 TBS. Set mushroom mix aside in a plate.

Make the Mornay Sauce. 

To the skillet add 2 TB. butter.  When melted, add 2 TBS. flour.  Mix well and cook for 1 minute.  Add slowly 1 cup of milk, 1/4 tsp. nutmeg, salt and white pepper.  Cook, stirring occasionally until sauce thickens and almost comes to a boil.  Add 1/2 cup grated Gruyere cheese.

Add the mushroom mix to the sauce and keep in very low heat until pasta is cooked.

Cook pasta in water as per package instructions.

Drain pasta.  Serve in individual plates.  Add sauce on top and Parmesan cheese before serving.

Recipe Photos Lindaraxa

Chicken Fricassee With Morels And Vin Jaune

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If  there is someone in this life whom I would  love to exchange places it would definitely have to be Patricia Wells.  A well recognized author, restaurant critic and teacher since the late 1970s, Patricia Wells  won the James Beard Award for Best International Cookbook for At Home In Provence published in  1996. Wells is the only American and the only woman to be a restaurant critic for a major French publication, L'Express (1988–1991). She was also a restaurant critic for the International Herald Tribune from 1980 until 2007.  She is married to Walter Wells, former editor in chief of the IHT and divides her time between Paris and Provence where she runs a wonderful cooking school. They have lived in France for the last 30 years.

photo Steven Rothfeld

Granted, Patricia Wells doesn't have the fame or the empire that Martha has created but as to quality of life...I wouldn't think for a minute!! Can you imagine getting up in the morning and having to review yet another Paris bistro, brasserie or gastronomic temple?! Or being best friends with Pierre Gagnaire and  Joel Robouchon whose cuisine and cookbook she introduced in the United States? tant pis!

I know I have been writing a lot about chicken lately but somehow the cold weather and chicken seem to go hand in hand.  I've been thinking about morels a lot also...more on them in another post.

Photo Google

About Vin Jaune

Vin jaune (French for "yellow wine") is a special and characteristic type of white wine made in the Jura wine region in eastern France. It is similar to dry fino Sherry and gets its character from being matured in a barrel under a film of yeast, known as the voile, on the wine's surface. Vin jaune shares many similarities with Sherry, including some aromas, but unlike Sherry, it is not a fortified wine. The wine is made from the Savagnin grape and is usually served after diner with a good cheese, such as a Comte. Château Chalon is the oldest and most famous of the 6 Jura AOCs.

You will not find a wide selection in the US as the wine is not as popular here as it is in France.  If you live in a major metropolitan area do try to find it.   Sherry-Lehman in NYC carries it and you can order online. Dry sherry is a good substitute and it's what I used here at the lake

Cook Time:45 min
Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

2 cups (2 ounces) dried morel mushrooms

1 fresh farm chicken (3 to 4 pounds), cut into 8 serving pieces, at room temperature

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground white pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 shallots, peeled and finely minced

2 plump, fresh cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced

2 cups vin jaune from the Jura, or sherry, or an oaky Chardonnay

1 cup heavy cream

Directions

Prepare the morels: Place the morels in a colander and rinse well under cold running water to rid them of any grit. Transfer them to a heatproof measuring cup. Pour boiling water over the mushrooms to cover. Set aside for 20 minutes to plump them up. Then, using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the mushrooms from the liquid, leaving behind any grit that may have fallen to the bottom. If any of the morels are extremely large, halve them lengthwise.

Liberally season the chicken pieces on all sides with sea salt and white pepper.

In a deep 12-inch skillet, combine the oil and 4 tablespoons of the butter. Place over moderate heat. When the fats are hot but not smoking, add the chicken, skin side down, and brown until it turns an even golden color, about 5 minutes more. Carefully regulate the heat to avoid scorching the skin. (This may have to be done in batches.) When all the pieces are browned, use tongs (to avoid piercing the meat) to transfer them to a platter. Season again with sea salt and white pepper.

Pour off and discard the fat in the skillet. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, the shallots, and the garlic. Cook, covered, over low heat, until soft but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and boil, uncovered, over high heat for 5 minutes to burn off the alcohol, which could make the sauce bitter. Add the cream and the morels, and stir to blend. Return the chicken and any juices that have accumulated to the skillet. Cover, and cook over low heat, turning the pieces in the sauce once or twice, until the chicken is cooked through and has thoroughly absorbed the sauce, about 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning and serve