Sweet And Spicy Mango Chutney

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Like a lot of you who have been exposed to mango chutney in this country or in the UK, I grew up on Major Grey's.  I don't know if it is the best chutney in the world but it is definitely my benchmark and what I pull out of the fridge to accompany Indian food and sometimes grilled meats.  I know, sacrilege.  I should probably be shot by the chutney police but some habits are hard to break.

 I have made chutney before and, in mid summer, my Georgia Peach Chutney is a staple in this house. I have also had the real stuff in my travels, sometimes so hot I couldn't breathe;  but I had never tackled mango chutney at home until yesterday.  A few months ago, my friend Chronica Domus asked me for a recipe, specifically for mango chutney.  I never forget a request, but I was waiting for mango season to make a batch for the house and close friends   I don't know if you have noticed that the mangoes this year are outstanding.  It must have also been a bumper crop, for I got 10 for $10.  How could I pass that.

Madame Mere and I adore mango marmalade with cream cheese and crackers, something we both grew up with in Cuba.  If you really want to savor a mango, though, you must have one on the beach, knee deep in water, with the waves breaking on your legs, a mango in one hand and a mango fork or a knife in the other. I will never forget the time one of my childhood friends showed up with a set of sterling mango forks and a bag of mangoes to enjoy on the beach in Key Biscayne.

If you are very lucky, you will have inherited a sterling set of mango forks from your great grandmother. The last time I remember seeing one before that memorable day at the beach was at my grandmother's house in Havana.  I wonder who is using them now and what they are using them for!

After making a batch of marmalade for MM, I remembered CD's request and went back for more mangoes.   I wanted to make a homemade version of my adored Major Grey's.  I also did not want one of those cloudy chutneys where you don't know what is what.  I wanted to see the pieces of mango and I wanted them crystal clear.  It had to be sweet, but not too sweet and hot but not oppressive.  I could have stopped with the mustard seeds, and you can too, but I also wanted some spice.  Luckily, when it comes to Asian spices, I have a good supply, so the only thing I had to buy was the caramelized ginger.  I like the texture it gives my peach chutney.  In the end, I think I ended up with what, in my mind, is a homemade version of Major Grey's, keeping in mind that commercial versions of chutney are never going to come close to one made at home.

Now, if you are wondering what the mango fork has to do with making mango chutney, it was the thought of that memorable day on the beach, sharing a mango with two childhood friends.  Priceless!

Mango Chutney

Chutney is a family of condiments associated with South Asian cuisine made from a highly variable mixture of spices, vegetables, or fruit.  There is a wide variety of recipes and preparation methods depending on geography.  Chutney can also range from wet to dry, and from sweet or hot. 

 The original chutney of India was usually a relish made from fresh fruits and spices. During the colonial era the British took it home and the recipe evolved, until the commercially made mango chutney ("Major Grey's chutney") became the British standard chutney. Commercially made cooked chutneys are still popular in Great Britain, and are usually made of fruit (usually mangoes, apples or pears), onions and raisins simmered with vinegar, brown sugar and spices for about two hours. Chutneys are served with almost every meal in India, especially as relishes with curries, but also as sauces for hot dishes (especially meats). They can be fresh or cooked, and are made from a wide variety of ingredients, ranging in flavor from sweet or sour, spicy or mild, or any combination; they can be thin or chunky and can be made with fruits or vegetables or both. Mangoes, apples, pears, tamarind, onions, lemon, tomato, raisins, coconut, vinegar, sugar, honey, citrus peel, garlic, ginger, mint, turmeric, cinnamon, cilantro, and hot chilies are some of the ingredients used. Cooked mango or papaya chutneys are common in the Caribbean and have become increasingly popular in the United States. Food.com 

Lindaraxa' Sweet And Spicy Mango Chutney*
Yield 3 pints and 1 cup

Ingredients:

5-6 mangoes (5 cups) peeled and diced

2 cups of white granulated sugar

1 cup white vinegar

1 onion chopped

1 red pepper diced

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup crystalized ginger finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, mashed and minced

1 tsp. whole mustard seeds

1 tsp coriander seeds

3 kaffir lime leaves

1/4 tsp turmeric

1/2 tsp  whole cloves

1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground cardamon

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes


Directions:

Combine the sugar and the vinegar in a large pot, bring to a boil, reduce to medium high  and stir until fully dissolved.

Add the mangoes, onion, red peppers, raisins, ginger and garlic and mix around in the pot. Let them simmer in the syrup while you mix the spices.

Combine the rest of the ingredients (the spices) in a bowl or other container and add to the pot.

Simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until syrupy and slightly thickened.

Remove the kaffir leaves and spoon into clean jars leaving 1/2 inch head space.  Close jars and process in water bath 15-20  minutes.


*If you want your chutney less "crystal clear", substitute brown sugar for the white sugar.

 If you want it "mushier" cook longer.  Otherwise, I would not mess with the spices, it's perfect. 



Try Georgia Peach Chutney With Caramelized Ginger

Grilled Chicken Tikka With Fresh Mango Chutney

Lamb Curry With Carrot Raita

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 To anyone wanting to explore the spicy world of curries, this recipe is a good start.

Not all curries are created equal,  something  I have learned from substantial research and hit and misses.  They come in a huge variety of styles, from delicately spiced to hot and fiery.  From mild and creamy to intensely aromatic.  Even in India the curries are quite different depending on the region the recipe comes from.  Curries also come from South East Asia, including Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh.  The word curry from Kari means sauce.  The curry powder that comes in a bottle is simply a mix of spices,  an idea originating in the 18th Century by Indian merchants  for sale to members of the British Colonial Government and those returning to England.  Since each type of curry uses a different mix of spices, you are always better making the blend at home. Wikipedia has an excellent page on curry which can be accessed here

Contrary to what you might think, authentic curries are easy to prepare and make a wonderful main dish for a dinner party, particularly if you plan to serve  buffet style.

The following recipe appeared about a year ago in the New York Times and got my attention right away.  Now I am not an expert in curries though I've had a few from my days of business travel to that part of the world.   What I liked about it was the simplicity and the spice mix, although I added some of the things I used  in another recipe very similar to this one, including the tomato paste, as well as  the coconut milk and the herbs at the end.  This is really a mish mash on my part as coconut milk is only typical of Indian curries from the coast and not from the northern region from which this curry seems to originate. If you want to see the original recipe go here.

My daughter who hates the word curry  liked it to the point that she is brown bagging the leftovers for tomorrow's lunch.  That's as good an endorsement as any.

Please, don't take shortcuts and take the time to toast the spices before you grind them.  This is what gives this dish the flavor and aroma it deserves.  Also, don't skip the raita,  It is a wonderful condiment for this curry.  Given a choice, I would skip the rice and accompany both with Indian or Pita bread, lightly toasted.

Raita is an Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi condiment made with yogurt and used as a sauce or dip. The yogurt may be seasoned with coriander (cilantro),cumin, mint, cayenne pepper, and other herbs and spices.

Yield: 4 Servings:

Ingredients:

FOR THE LAMB:

2 pounds lean lamb shoulder cut in 3/4-inch cubes

1 tablespoon grated ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons grated garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons turmeric powder

1/2 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground

1/2 teaspoon coriander seed, toasted and ground

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Salt

2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil

2 red onions, sliced thick, 1 pound

6 whole cloves

10 black peppercorns

1 inch-long piece cinnamon stick
1 TB tomato paste *
1 TB  chopped fresh mint*
2 TB chopped fresh cilantro*
3 TB coconut milk (optional)*
       

FOR THE RAITA:

1 cup plain yogurt

1 tablespoon ghee or vegetable oil

1/2 teaspoon black mustard seed

1/2 teaspoon cumin seed

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup coarsely grated carrot

Pinch of cayenne

Salt

1 tablespoon each chopped mint, chives and cilantro.

Directions:

1. Put the lamb in a bowl with the ginger, garlic, turmeric, cumin, coriander, cayenne and 1/2 teaspoon salt and mix well. Marinate at room temperature 30 minutes, or up to several hours refrigerated (even overnight is fine).

2. Heat the ghee or oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until softened. Turn up the heat to medium-high and add the seasoned meat. Lightly brown the meat and onions, stirring occasionally, for another 5 minutes or so. Add the cloves, peppercorns and cinnamon stick, *(here I added a TB tomato paste) then add 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and turn heat to gentle simmer. Cook for about an hour, or until the meat is fork-tender. Add the optional coconut milk here and stir to blend. Cook for a couple of minutes. Taste the sauce and add salt to taste.(You can add the coconut milk here if using) Raise the heat and let the sauce reduce a bit, if desired. (May be prepared ahead to this point and reheated before serving.)Chop and add the extra herbs right before serving
      

3. To make the raita, put the yogurt in a bowl. Heat the ghee or oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cumin, let them pop a bit — be careful — then stir in the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, till barely golden. Carefully stir the hot contents of the skillet into the yogurt. Add the grated carrot, cayenne and salt, to taste. Let the raita sit at least 10 minutes to allow the flavors to mingle. Just before serving, stir in the mint, chives and cilantro.

Recipe adapted from the New York Times and The Curry Cookbook
Photos Lindaraxa